Last few months my climbing was mixture of everything. I was not focused on any particular project or strict training plan because I felt tired of the intense rhythm I held for months. This time I decided to follow my instinct and keep things as simple as possible - even if it meant climbing just once or twice per week.
This relaxed approach taught me about less is more philosophy which I have heard about but never really tried it. Of course, you cant expect to improve this way but surely you will have more energy and this is what I wanted.
At first it was kind of surprising how your climbing can stay on rather high level despite few sessions per week less than usually. I climbed less but quality of the sessions raised.
The other good thing which came with this energy boom was strong idea to change regular routines and spice things up a bit. So, beside running a lot I did some training sessions at home, got our crashpads out from the basement , visRead More...
Guest blog by Chad Jensen - Alaska USA!Dear all its a pleasure for us to introduce Chad Jensen an keen climber a brilliant inventor from Alaska - USA. Chad has invented a brilliant system to show problems on the MOON Board. Below you will find Chad's guest blog and a link to the Video showing his super cool innovation. Thanks a bunch for sharing this with us Chad we are delighted! MOON Climbing
These last few years, I learned that I really need to add more bouldering into my training routine to be powerful enough to climb at the level I desire. The best bouldering system I’ve found that allows me to incorporate this training is the Moonboard. I love how many problems there are and the level of difficulty of the problems (although it was frustrating at first!). There is no cheating your training session on this board. The only problem I ran into is the taRead More...
Your last Moon Board challenge was this spicy 7b going on 7c problem.
Did you meet the challenge? Are you ready for the next? It's going to be all change on the Moon Board in the next few days with 3 new compatible set ups created by our Croatian team to freshen up your training.Read More...
This summer I started to work on Vukowar project, the one of The Big Four, while the half of the line was still wet. I worked the route in a very structured sessions, usually doing laps on critical parts and climbing them in very precise style and slow pace, almost like doing french blow on every single move in a row. I know it is modern to go fast like Ondra these days but I still like to work on moves in a slow style and than just add some extra speed when I go for real.
Anyway, I knew there will be just a small time window when the route will be completly dry and I worked like a maniac to get fit and confident for that moment. It was true. Vukowar got dry and it lasted for just around 2 weeks, but it was enough. I was totally prepaired and I did FA in literally first real try. It is always a great feeling and privilege to climb such a special lines but since I often emotionaly connect with them I cant escape some sorrow oncRead More...
Summer chaos started with getting back into full time work regime after one year long maternity leave. Well, this was really a hard landing back into reality, especially coz I am not crazy about my boring administration job. I do not want to sound like I am complaining but I must conclude that trying to be mother, housewife, full time employee and climber in the same 24hours is definitely crazy idea. Mostly it is simply impossible to catch all but even
Soon, summer is coming to an end. I've had a fantastic summer so far. Basically, it has all been about climbing. Outdoor climbing, climbing trips, indoor training, climbing comps, climbing books, climbing friends and some climbing chat.
I've learnt a lot during these few summer months. I've found one of my biggest weaknesses. It isn't anything about strength, technique, or even dynos (which I need to practice....). It my psyche. When I realized this, all the pieces fell into it's places: why I couldn't perform at my best at the most important competitions, why I fell of on the same route and same sequence time after time although I had done it before. Why I once did perform my best on a competition; because I didn't feel any pressure.
I'm very happy to find this out. I mean, now I can make it even better! I've started to read a book about mental training and mental training practice has entered my training schedule. Now I'm extrRead More...
Few weeks ago I reached number of 99 FA´s around my local sports climbing areas. My friend told me that number 100 should be some special line and I surely liked that idea.
I definitely don`t have problems with finding great projects, more likely I have problems with climbing them. For example here is the list of special four which I have been working on these days. They are all top quality, beautifull and entirely natural lines. Also they are more or less close to my max limit and probably this is why I can hardly imagine ever to climb all of them.
On the other hand limits are relative and life would be boring without the big ideas so...here is the list:
1) INTO THE WILD / Omiš
It starts with a 6b warm up pitch and than right away transforms into 50 degrees overhanging monster for the next 15m. After bolting it I couldnt even locate the holds and imagine moves between them. Now, I am on the next level which means that I can clearly recognize Read More...
Last weeks I have been enjoying ideal climbing combination - good form and nice weather. Since the last blog I have continued with slow and steady progression. In rainy periods I did lots of indoor climbing where I got a bit stronger, luckily without any injury.
The rest of the time I was out
on the rock as much as possible and on the mission to chase the lines from my ticklist, manily composed of numerous old debtors. To climb these lines that I already failed is usually pain in the ass. I bet it is allways much easyer to do the new „hard“ route than „easy“ old one which doesnt fit your style.