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Training

Showing 1 to 8 of 80 posts

Ben Moon's Climbing Diary From 1990 weeks 3 & 4

I am still on the come back road from my skiing injury which had put me out for a couple of months and it would appear the focus at this point is a world cup competition in Vienna, Austria in the last weekend of April. In an attempt to get my endurance up I am flitting between Raven's Tor, Lower Pen-Trwyn and Malham. At Malham I am trying Mark Leach's hard new route Cry Freedom (formerly the aid route Controversy) which weighed in at a hard 8b+. Needless to say the comp didn't go well and I went out in the semi-finals. Scan 3Read More...

Ben Moon's Climbing Diary From 1990 Weeks 1 & 2

To celebrate the first ascent 25 years ago of what is now widely recognised as the worlds 1st 9a route we will be publishing each week my climbing diaries from 25 years ago leading up to the ascent. To give a little bit of background to these diaries the winter of '89 was spent training on my newly constructed training board in the cellar of the small 2-up 2-down terrace I was living in in Sheffield. Although a very basic training board by todays standards it was never the less quite a leap forward for us. Bear in mind that at this time there was no commercial climbing wall in Sheffield and all our training consisted of bouldering either on man made stone walls like Broomgrove Road wall or on the peak limestone and grit. Now we were able to train on a specific style of problem and to train whenever we felt like it regardless of the weather. It certainly paid off and by early February after several months of training I was feeling perhaps the strongest ever. Before attempting to freRead More...

Lords of the boards

I recently watched a few buddies having good time on the Moon Board and it was great to see them getting so hooked by this small piece of wood, despite everything else our gym has to offer. It reminded me of period almost two decades ago when the system boards were smaller than the standard Moon Board. At the time it was our only indoor training tool. There were a bunch of them at different locations in Split and we trained on them like crazy. Most of the time I spent at Joke Purko's place whose board was super fingery and with the best collection of home made wooden holds. I remember a hard 30-40 move problem we climbed standing on the same footholds because the board was so small that we could reach nearly all the holds without moving our feet. At the Zlodre board we were wild and loud. This board was definitely more sophisticated. It had the option to change the angle of the overhang and it was the first board in Split with a few modern Lapis holds bought in Slovenia. &Read More...

What is The Moon Board?

Now that the School Room is back in business and we have a sexy new Moon Board to train on we thought it was time to make a short film explaining the concept and benefits of training on a Moon Board. We hope you find this film helpful and motivating. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mgl1hNgXr1oRead More...

Less is more

Last few months my climbing was mixture of everything. I was not focused on any particular project or strict training plan because I felt tired of the intense rhythm I held for months. This time I decided to follow my instinct and keep things as simple as possible - even if it meant climbing just once or twice per week.

This relaxed approach taught me about less is more philosophy which I have heard about but never really tried it. Of course, you cant expect to improve this way but surely you will have more energy and this is what I wanted. At first it was kind of surprising how your climbing can stay on rather high level despite few sessions per week less than usually. I climbed less but quality of the sessions raised. The other good thing which came with this energy boom was strong idea to change regular routines and spice things up a bit. So, beside running a lot I did some training sessions at home, got our crashpads out from the basement , visRead More...

Lightening up a MOON Board!

Guest blog by Chad Jensen - Alaska USA! Dear all its a pleasure for us to introduce Chad Jensen an keen climber a brilliant inventor from Alaska - USA. Chad has invented a brilliant system to show problems on the MOON Board. Below you will find Chad's guest blog and a link to the Video showing his super cool innovation. Thanks a bunch for sharing this with us Chad we are delighted! MOON Climbing   These last few years, I learned that I really need to add more bouldering into my training routine to be powerful enough to climb at the level I desire. The best bouldering system I’ve found that allows me to incorporate this training is the Moonboard. I love how many problems there are and the level of difficulty of the problems (although it was frustrating at first!). There is no cheating your training session on this board. The only problem I ran into is the taRead More...

Moon Board Challenge

Your last Moon Board challenge was this spicy 7b going on 7c problem. Did you meet the challenge? Are you ready for the next? It's going to be all change on the Moon Board in the next few days with 3 new compatible set ups created by our Croatian team to freshen up your training.Read More...

From furious summer into autumn tranquility

This summer I started to work on Vukowar project, the one of The Big Four, while the half of the line was still wet. I worked the route in a very structured sessions, usually doing laps on critical parts and climbing them in very precise style and slow pace, almost like doing french blow on every single move in a row. I know it is modern to go fast like Ondra these days but I still like to work on moves in a slow style and than just add some extra speed when I go for real. Anyway, I knew there will be just a small time window when the route will be completly dry and I worked like a maniac to get fit and confident for that moment. It was true. Vukowar got dry and it lasted for just around 2 weeks, but it was enough. I was totally prepaired and I did FA in literally first real try. It is always a great feeling and privilege to climb such a special lines but since I often emotionaly connect with them I cant escape some sorrow oncRead More...

Showing 1 to 8 of 80 posts