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Showing 1 to 8 of 83 posts

Ben Moon's Climbing Diary from 1990 Weeks 8 & 9

So we are now into weeks 8 & 9 since the thumb injury which kept me out of climbing for about 2 months and I've finally started trying to free the start to The Whore of Babylon at Raven's Tor which would shortly become the hardest route in the world and the first 9a. In my diary I refer to Raven's Tor as RT and the Whore of Babylon as the Whore.  The route is hard straight of the deck and only about 6 moves long and the number's in my diary refer to the moves with move 3 being the crux move. It looks like I made good progress very quickly. Scan 6   If you are interested to see some video footage of Hubble check out the film Mammut made of Sean McCol's attempt to climb it here https://youtu.be/5Nbzj3TxDKE        Read More...

Ben Moon's Climbing Diary From 1990 Weeks 6 to 7

It's now been 6 weeks since I had the wire removed from my thumb after a skiing accident and I am now only 4 weeks away from making the first ascent of Hubble at Raven's Tor which was to become the worlds 1st 9a route. It doesn't look like I get much training or climbing for the next two weeks due to working on a terrible Bogna film called Fire, Ice and Dynamite which I thankfully  never got to see. Maybe this forced rest for 2 weeks was a good thing for me since I'd now been climbing and training for around 6 weeks and was due a change of scene before starting the route campaign in earnest.   Scan 5Read More...

Ben Moon's Climbing Diary From 1990 weeks 4 & 5

Here is week 4 and 5 in the build up to the first ascent of Hubble. Not much training going on but lots of air miles! Shortly after the world cup competition in Austria Jerry and I flew out to Tokyo for a demonstration comp which I think Yuji won. It was a flying visit but great to see a little of Tokyo. Lots and lots of people, really good healthy food and video games which were light years ahead of what we had in the UK at the time although Jerry and I did get into a bit of a scrap over these! Ben Moon training diary 1990 - Week 4/5Read More...

Ben Moon's Climbing Diary From 1990 weeks 3 & 4

I am still on the come back road from my skiing injury which had put me out for a couple of months and it would appear the focus at this point is a world cup competition in Vienna, Austria in the last weekend of April. In an attempt to get my endurance up I am flitting between Raven's Tor, Lower Pen-Trwyn and Malham. At Malham I am trying Mark Leach's hard new route Cry Freedom (formerly the aid route Controversy) which weighed in at a hard 8b+. Needless to say the comp didn't go well and I went out in the semi-finals. Ben Moon Training Diary - Week 2/3Read More...

Ben Moon's Climbing Diary From 1990 Weeks 1 & 2

To celebrate the first ascent 25 years ago of what is now widely recognised as the worlds 1st 9a route we will be publishing each week my climbing diaries from 25 years ago leading up to the ascent. To give a little bit of background to these diaries the winter of '89 was spent training on my newly constructed training board in the cellar of the small 2-up 2-down terrace I was living in in Sheffield. Although a very basic training board by todays standards it was never the less quite a leap forward for us. Bear in mind that at this time there was no commercial climbing wall in Sheffield and all our training consisted of bouldering either on man made stone walls like Broomgrove Road wall or on the peak limestone and grit. Now we were able to train on a specific style of problem and to train whenever we felt like it regardless of the weather. It certainly paid off and by early February after several months of training I was feeling perhaps the strongest ever. Before attempting to freRead More...

Lords of the boards

I recently watched a few buddies having good time on the Moon Board and it was great to see them getting so hooked by this small piece of wood, despite everything else our gym has to offer. It reminded me of period almost two decades ago when the system boards were smaller than the standard Moon Board. At the time it was our only indoor training tool. There were a bunch of them at different locations in Split and we trained on them like crazy. Most of the time I spent at Joke Purko's place whose board was super fingery and with the best collection of home made wooden holds. I remember a hard 30-40 move problem we climbed standing on the same footholds because the board was so small that we could reach nearly all the holds without moving our feet. At the Zlodre board we were wild and loud. This board was definitely more sophisticated. It had the option to change the angle of the overhang and it was the first board in Split with a few modern Lapis holds bought in Slovenia. &Read More...

What is The Moon Board?

Now that the School Room is back in business and we have a sexy new Moon Board to train on we thought it was time to make a short film explaining the concept and benefits of training on a Moon Board. We hope you find this film helpful and motivating. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mgl1hNgXr1oRead More...

Less is more

Last few months my climbing was mixture of everything. I was not focused on any particular project or strict training plan because I felt tired of the intense rhythm I held for months. This time I decided to follow my instinct and keep things as simple as possible - even if it meant climbing just once or twice per week.

This relaxed approach taught me about less is more philosophy which I have heard about but never really tried it. Of course, you cant expect to improve this way but surely you will have more energy and this is what I wanted. At first it was kind of surprising how your climbing can stay on rather high level despite few sessions per week less than usually. I climbed less but quality of the sessions raised. The other good thing which came with this energy boom was strong idea to change regular routines and spice things up a bit. So, beside running a lot I did some training sessions at home, got our crashpads out from the basement , visRead More...

Showing 1 to 8 of 83 posts