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Showing 1 to 8 of 84 posts

Ben Moon's Climbing Diary from 1990 Weeks 8 & 9

So we are now into weeks 8 & 9 since the thumb injury which kept me out of climbing for about 2 months and I've finally started

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Ben Moon's Climbing Diary From 1990 Weeks 6 to 7

It's now been 6 weeks since I had the wire removed from my thumb after a skiing accident and I am now only 4 weeks away from making the first ascent of Hubble at Raven's Tor which was to become the

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Ben Moon's Climbing Diary From 1990 weeks 4 & 5

Here is week 4 and 5 in the build up to the first ascent of Hubble. Not much training going on but lots of air miles!

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Ben Moon's Climbing Diary From 1990 weeks 3 & 4

I am still on the come back road from my skiing injury which had put me out for a couple of months and it

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Ben Moon's Climbing Diary From 1990 Weeks 1 & 2

To celebrate the first ascent 25 years ago of what is now widely recognised as the worlds 1st 9a

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Lords of the boards

I recently watched a few buddies having good time on the Moon Board and it was great to see them getting so hooked by this small piece of wood, despite everything else our gym has to offer. It reminded me of period almost two decades ago when the system boards were smaller than the standard Moon Board. At the time it was our only indoor training tool. There were a bunch of them at different locations in Split and we trained on them like crazy. Most of the time I spent at Joke Purko's place whose board was super fingery and with the best collection of home made wooden holds. I remember a hard 30-40 move problem we climbed standing on the same footholds because the board was so small that we could reach nearly all the holds without moving our feet. At the Zlodre board we were wild and loud. This board was definitely more sophisticated. It had the option to change the angle of the overhang and it was the first board in Split with a few modern Lapis holds bought in Slovenia. &Read More...

What is The Moon Board?

Now that the School Room is back in business and we have a sexy new Moon Board to train on we thought it was time to make a short film explaining the concept and benefits of training on a Moon Board. We hope you find this film helpful and motivating. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mgl1hNgXr1oRead More...

Less is more

Last few months my climbing was mixture of everything. I was not focused on any particular project or strict training plan because I felt tired of the intense rhythm I held for months. This time I decided to follow my instinct and keep things as simple as possible - even if it meant climbing just once or twice per week.

This relaxed approach taught me about less is more philosophy which I have heard about but never really tried it. Of course, you cant expect to improve this way but surely you will have more energy and this is what I wanted. At first it was kind of surprising how your climbing can stay on rather high level despite few sessions per week less than usually. I climbed less but quality of the sessions raised. The other good thing which came with this energy boom was strong idea to change regular routines and spice things up a bit. So, beside running a lot I did some training sessions at home, got our crashpads out from the basement , visRead More...

Showing 1 to 8 of 84 posts