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Training

Showing 1 to 8 of 73 posts

From furious summer into autumn tranquility

This summer I started to work on Vukowar project, the one of The Big Four, while the half of the line was still wet. I worked the route in a very structured sessions, usually doing laps on critical parts and climbing them in very precise style and slow pace, almost like doing french blow on every single move in a row. I know it is modern to go fast like Ondra these days but I still like to work on moves in a slow style and than just add some extra speed when I go for real. Anyway, I knew there will be just a small time window when the route will be completly dry and I worked like a maniac to get fit and confident for that moment. It was true. Vukowar got dry and it lasted for just around 2 weeks, but it was enough. I was totally prepaired and I did FA in literally first real try. It is always a great feeling and privilege to climb such a special lines but since I often emotionaly connect with them I cant escape some sorRead More...

Summer chaos

Summer chaos started with getting back into full time work regime after one year long maternity leave. Well, this was really a hard landing back into reality, especially coz I am not crazy about my boring administration job. I do not want to sound like I am complaining but I must conclude that trying to be mother, housewife, full time employee and climber in the same 24hours is definitely crazy idea. Mostly it is simply impossible to catch all but even

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Summer months

Soon, summer is coming to an end. I've had a fantastic summer so far. Basically, it has all been about climbing. Outdoor climbing, climbing trips, indoor training, climbing comps, climbing books, climbing friends and some climbing chat.

I've learnt a lot during these few summer months. I've found one of my biggest weaknesses. It isn't anything about strength, technique, or even dynos (which I need to practice....). It my psyche. When I realized this, all the pieces fell into it's places: why I couldn't perform at my best at the most important competitions, why I fell of on the same route and same sequence time after time although I had done it before. Why I once did perform my best on a competition; because I didn't feel any pressure.

I'm very happy to find this out. I mean, now I can make it even better! I've started to read a book about mental training and mental training practice has entered my training schedule. Now I'm extrRead More...

1 to 100

Few weeks ago I reached number of 99 FA´s around my local sports climbing areas. My friend told me that number 100 should be some special line and I surely liked that idea. I definitely don`t have problems with finding great projects, more likely I have problems with climbing them. For example here is the list of special four which I have been working on these days. They are all top quality, beautifull and entirely natural lines. Also they are more or less close to my max limit and probably this is why I can hardly imagine ever to climb all of them. On the other hand limits are relative and life would be boring without the big ideas so...here is the list:   1) INTO THE WILD / Omiš It starts with a 6b warm up pitch and than right away transforms into 50 degrees overhanging monster for the next 15m. After bolting it I couldnt even locate the holds and imagine moves between them. Now, I am on the next level which means that I can clearly recognize Read More...

One year after

Last weeks I have been enjoying ideal climbing combination - good form and nice weather. Since the last blog I have continued with slow and steady progression. In rainy periods I did lots of indoor climbing where I got a bit stronger, luckily without any injury.

The rest of the time I was out


on the rock as much as possible and on the mission to chase the lines from my ticklist, manily composed of numerous old debtors. To climb these lines that I already failed is usually pain in the ass. I bet it is allways much easyer to do the new „hard“ route than „easy“ old one which doesnt fit your style.

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Summer months

Soon, summer is coming to an end. I've had a fantastic summer so far. Basically, it has all been about climbing. Outdoor climbing, climbing trips, indoor training, climbing comps, climbing books, climbing friends and some climbing chat.

I've learnt a lot during these few summer months. I've found one of my biggest weaknesses. It isn't anything about strength, technique, or even dynos (which I need to practice....). It my psyche. When I realized this, all the pieces fell into it's places: why I couldn't perform at my best at the most important competitions, why I fell of on the same route and same sequence time after time although I had done it before. Why I once did perform my best on a competition; because I didn't feel any pressure.

I'm very happy to find this out. I mean, now I can make it even better! I've started to read a book about mental training and mental training practice has entered my training schedule. Now I'm extrRead More...

New Challenges

Lately, I've been super busy. Not climbing a lot for myself, but making some other goals and dreams come true. We've just opened a new gym for Slovenia Climbing Team. Our head coaches Simon and Roman have been dreaming about it for a long time and now it's here. I'm so happy and proud to be part of this project and I'm sure that it'll make our team even stronger! Beside the opening of the new gym, we organized a nice master competition event and I was one of the routesetters. The


final round was a great show and we'll do it for sure next year. I've been a member of Slovenia Climbing Team as a competitor for many years and now I'm in a different role as a coach. I find it really challenging and I'm so happy that my life is all about climbing and that my job is also something that I love! Next week we're off to Suisse with the youth team. It'll be cool to see them crushing outside and I'm happy to go along, it's been a while since my last visit to Ticino!  

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The Workout

The Workout Hello to everyone!!! The winter is gone and the sunny days of spring come more often, for outdoor climbing:) This winter in Kalymnos was one of the most wet winters with a lot of humidity in the last 10 years, the tufas and the stalactites are wet until now. So it was the opportunityto start indoor training to get a little bit stronger and fit. For me the indoor training is very important because it gives me extra strength and endurance that i need to finish my projects and my goals faster. Also it keeps my motivation high because i can see the improvement day by day and i know when i will go for my project i will be more ready and prepared for this. This video is made from the end of my strength cycle,so i was prepared for this workouts the last months. On this video you will see some hard exercises like:campusboard 1-5-9,deep lock off 1-8,hanging horizontial with my small fingers,one arm pull Read More...

Showing 1 to 8 of 73 posts