Soon, summer is coming to an end. I've had a fantastic summer so far. Basically, it has all been about climbing. Outdoor climbing, climbing trips, indoor training, climbing comps, climbing books, climbing friends and some climbing chat.
I've learnt a lot during these few summer months. I've found one of my biggest weaknesses. It isn't anything about strength, technique, or even dynos (which I need to practice....). It my psyche. When I realized this, all the pieces fell into it's places: why I couldn't perform at my best at the most important competitions, why I fell of on the same route and same sequence time after time although I had done it before. Why I once did perform my best on a competition; because I didn't feel any pressure.
I'm very happy to find this out. I mean, now I can make it even better! I've started to read a book about mental training and mental training practice has entered my training schedule. Now I'm extrRead More...
Lately, I've been super busy. Not climbing a lot for myself, but making some other goals and dreams come true. We've just opened a new gym for Slovenia Climbing Team. Our head coaches Simon and Roman have been dreaming about it for a long time and now it's here. I'm so happy and proud to be part of this project and I'm sure that it'll make our team even stronger!
Beside the opening of the new gym, we organized a nice master competition event and I was one of the routesetters. The
final round was a great show and we'll do it for sure next year.
I've been a member of Slovenia Climbing Team as a competitor for many years and now I'm in a different role as a coach. I find it really challenging and I'm so happy that my life is all about climbing and that my job is also something that I love!
Next week we're off to Suisse with the youth team. It'll be cool to see them crushing outside and I'm happy to go along, it's been a while since my last visit to Ticino!
Hello to everyone!!!
The winter is gone and the sunny days of spring come more often, for outdoor climbing:)
This winter in Kalymnos was one of the most wet winters with a lot of humidity in the last 10 years, the tufas and the stalactites are wet until now.
So it was the opportunityto start indoor training to get a little bit stronger and fit. For me the indoor training is very important because it gives me extra strength and endurance that i need to finish my projects and my goals faster. Also it keeps my motivation high because i can see the improvement day by day and i know when i will go for my project i will be more ready and prepared for this.
This video is made from the end of my strength cycle,so i was prepared for this workouts the last months.
On this video you will see some hard exercises like:campusboard 1-5-9,deep lock off 1-8,hanging horizontial with my small fingers,one arm pull Read More...
“I like to be in the nature, away from man made structures of plastic, that just don´t inspire me.” – wrote once Chris Sharma and perfectly described his but also mine attitude towards climbing indoors. My outdoor oriented character blessed with nice climate and so much rock around the place I live shaped my climbing style. I learned how to climb good on rock but remained relatively weak in physical aspect.
For a climber like me winter season has always been reserved for climbing out as much as possible but this time it turned into complete opposite direction- building our new gym. So ironic at first, but in fact far from that.
This new climbing gym is becoming the masterpiece of the generation. To imagine such a training spot in Split some years ago would be like science fiction. In town where southern easy going life style is stronger than anything, showing such an enthusiasm and team spirit, working hard and building something so ahead of all this region ever Read More...
and set of School Holds which will hopefully make life a bit easier all round. Rather than setting one problem at a time, this method puts the full set of holds all on the board at the same time in a random position. Then we have set problems on this grid from 6c up to about 8a which can all be climbed without moving a hold. For these problems you only need the grid ref on the sheets below. Not rocket science but just a more traditional way of setting problems. More sheets will follow in this manner. Let us know how you get on and send us some problems based on these setups if you spot any alternatives you consider worth a bash.
We have set up 2 new sets of problems 05 & 06 and for those of you with 2 sets of School Holds we have combined problems 05 & 06 into 1 uber set of problems!
Last few months turned into totally unexpected direction. I was just starting to feel light and strong when something snaped in my righ middle finger during one gym session. I already had problems with tendon sheets from time to time but this was something different and I immediately knew that I ruined few months of good training and will have to start once over again.
So instead climbing outside on the premiere Dalmatian limestone in cool autumn conditions I ended up indoor on physiotherapy sessions at my friend Goran Vratarić. He treated my finger with microwaves, magnet, ultrasound, massage and we included elbow into the sessions since it hurted from time to time due to 2mm calcification I had on right medial condil.
In the meanwhile my climbing club Marulianus finally signed rent contract for the place where we will build our new climbing gym. It is a huge project and once finished this will surely be the biggest climbing gym in Croatia. Beside great boulder area etc. , tRead More...
Getting back into shape after giving birth is not a simple task but so far I am very pleased how it goes. I am enjoying the whole process and my climbing definitely improved since the last blog. Want to share few thoughts I ´ve been thinking about lately:
- Repeat old routes - often!
- Save some (easy) lines – you ´ll need them!
- Keep the team spirit!
Repeating the old routes that you already climbed once, doesnt make much sence if you have chance to non-stop travel like a pro. But, since majority of us spend the most of the time on our local spots, repeating the old routes (not counting those for warm up) should be done daily. My husband does this pretty often and I remember that he told me few times how it is good thing to do from time to time and for many reasons. Honestly I never thought about this much but now I understand what he was talking about. These days I am often thrilled with the quality and the beauty of this forgotten routes. I did them once, movRead More...
Not sure I have much to contribute with when it comes to hard sport climbing, in fact I think I have lees than zero to add as I'm such a mediocre climber. I'm outright lost in the world of pulling hard. Last year I spent an enormous amount of time redpointing an 8a+ and yes I'm happy I sent it but not overwhelmed with joy. After that ordeal I promised my self I would go for volume and not spend more than two or maximum three tries on any thing this year. How ever I have two routes in Tre Cime I like to pull off this summer and they both go free at 7c+ and 8a with multiple 7b to 7c pitches. So I figure I need to get some max power in me and not just stamina.
Now this redpoint swampland is hard to get out of. When I start to invest time and effort in to a route its kind of becomes important to send it. How come? What is really the point of climbing half a grade up or down? EGO! Its all about ego I guess. For me the process of trying harder routes are actually both demotivating and depreRead More...