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- 05.06.2013- by Ben Moon
In the previous weekend, on the 25th and 26th of May, the European youth bouldering championships were held in Switzerland. The competition was located amongst mountains in the city called Grindelwald. Right after I finished my exam on friday the 24th I drove directly to Aalborg airport, flew to Copenhagen from where I continued to Zürich with my friend, Alexander. We arrived in Zürich at 19:35 (pm), and we had to continue our travel by train to Bern and afterwards to Interlaken Ost (in danish that sounds exactly like the translation of “a plate of cheese”, and after having had a very long day with both exams and long flights, we were both so exhausted and tired, that we were overly amused every single time the name of our destination was called up on the speaker. People must have thought we were completely retarded.) From “Interlaken Ost” we had to go by bus, to finally arrive at Grindelwald. At that time it was almost midnight. However, we were lucky that we lived only 1Read More...
- 19.04.2013- by Ivan Lisica
One more winter season is officialy closed. Spent it mainly on area Markezina greda - the homeland of great lines and hard climbing.
It was long time ago since I stopped couting days spent on project known as Prvomajski zajeb. Although in the beginning it felt nearly immposible, from the moment I fell in love with this line, there was no way back. I invested unlimited amount of time and energy into it and last autumn I started to feel significant progress. Finally I reach the level to give serious attempts and was very pleased about that.
(Photo above: In the lower section...)
Prvomajski zajeb is power-endurancRead More...
- 09.04.2013- by Ben Moon
Me and my boyfriend Gu spent nearly the whole February in Tenerife for rope climbing and bouldering. Meanwhile Gu was focused on bouldering, I spent most of the time for rope climbing – and this is one of the best things about Tenerife: If there is a rope-climbing area, there is always a bunch of Blocs lying around wait to be climbed in its perfection. Gu was as usually super quick with repeating all boulders and he did so many first ascends that I was already after one week scared, he could get bored, BUT “fortunately” he found this super project witch wasn’t climbed for more than 10 years – although there were a lot of strong people trying it. Meanwhile he was spending time on that project, I couldn’t get enough of all the rope climbs. There are so many areas with a lot of routes from steep to totally overhanging and there is endless potential for new routes and clean climbing (because of all the cracks). The only problem for me about Tenerife was – getting resting dRead More...
- 21.02.2013- by Ivan Lisica
On 27th of January I did 4th ascent of superclassic Il Marattoneta (8b+) in Paklenica, Croatia. It is famous, historic line and one of those which name speaks thousand words. I saw it first time in 1997., 10 years after Maurizio Zanolla Manolo did his epic first ascent and in period when route still didnt have any repeats. It looked unreal good, just like today and I was impressed by Manolo’s vision of the line. Altough I was 15 year old boy and didnt know much about climbing, I was sure this is kind of routes I want to climb and search for. In the following years I gave all energy to develop my climbing skills while Marattoneta saw first repeats by Slowenian aces Perko and Lukič. I took my chance to try it few times but couldn't offer much more than checking the moves. Last year we met again and I felt I was ready to climb it but summer temperatures and humidity shut me down. This is why I decide to come back in clear and cold winter days, my favorite part of the year. The daRead More...
- 07.01.2013- by Ben Moon
So the year passed by, just like that - or so it feels, now, afterwards, when I can do nothing about anything that happened but leaf through the memories and events in my mind.
To make what could have been a very long story very short I have chosen a few events just to summon up an outline of 2012 from my perspective. I have purposely chosen not to write (whine) about injuries, school and other depressing stuff even though I must admit that these has been kind of my own constant moan at times. One thing I will confirm, however, is that right now I have a stress fracture on my right shin-bone due to overtraining. Some scans revealed it a few weeks ago. And to make this a non-whining statement (like I just promised to save everyone from), I want to say that this will be over soon enough and that I can now fully climb agin. So no excuses.
Here are an outline of some of the main events with matching pictures from my 2012! Enjoy.Read More...
- 21.12.2012- by Ben Moon
The year 2012 is coming to an end and as one often does at the end of a year I find myself looking back, evaluating, reviewing and re-experiencing the year that has passed. I think about all the memorable climbing experiences I have had, all the fun and exciting things that happened, all the big highlights. And I also think about the things that were not so good, climbs I could not finish, trips and competitions that did not go as well as I hoped and things in my training and plans that I wish I had done differently. I also evaluate the decisions that I made and see how this has changed my life as a climber. After I finished high school in the summer 2011 I decided to have one year where I just focused on climbing, training and traveling before I started university. Therefore when the year 2012 began I was in Spain doing sport climbing. I was in a pretty good shape after an autumn where I only had been climbing and not having to juggle schoolwork and training every day. I had a greaRead More...
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