So the year passed by, just like that - or so it feels, now, afterwards, when I can do nothing about anything that happened but leaf through the memories and events in my mind.
To make what could have been a very long story very short I have chosen a few events just to summon up an outline of 2012 from my perspective. I have purposely chosen not to write (whine) about injuries, school and other depressing stuff even though I must admit that these has been kind of my own constant moan at times. One thing I will confirm, however, is that right now I have a stress fracture on my right shin-bone due to overtraining. Some scans revealed it a few weeks ago. And to make this a non-whining statement (like I just promised to save everyone from), I want to say that this will be over soon enough and that I can now fully climb agin. So no excuses.
Here are an outline of some of the main events with matching pictures from my 2012! Enjoy.
The year 2012 is coming to an end and as one often does at the end of a year I find myself looking back, evaluating, reviewing and re-experiencing the year that has passed. I think about all the memorable climbing experiences I have had, all the fun and exciting things that happened, all the big highlights. And I also think about the things that were not so good, climbs I could not finish, trips and competitions that did not go as well as I hoped and things in my training and plans that I wish I had done differently. I also evaluate the decisions that I made and see how this has changed my life as a climber.
After I finished high school in the summer 2011 I decided to have one year where I just focused on climbing, training and traveling before I started university. Therefore when the year 2012 began I was in Spain doing sport climbing. I was in a pretty good shape after an autumn where I only had been climbing and not having to juggle schoolwork and training every day. I had a greaRead More...
Hi folks! I have small news for mankind and big news for me and my family – I am pregnant! Well, it aint since yesterday, just going through 6th month now and my belly clearly shows whats going on. Feeling really happy and excited about this change in my life although I was a bit confused at the beginning. We were just packing stuff for summer boulder tour when I found out the big news. For a moment we thought about cancelling our rock trip but quickly came to conclusion that 20 days in the Alps will be nice chance to isolate in nature, consolidate my mind and accept new situation.
Also I got really nice book about pregnancy from good friend of mine so I had chance to learn practical stuff about this new world I have suddenly entered. First few risky months were kind of stressfull but since than I started to feel much better physicaly and mentally. Right now I am in some flow state of mind, everything goes according the plan and hope it will keep this way till the end of the journRead More...
What's going on lately? A lack of rock that's what's going for the last months. Since summer (a month in Targasonne) I didn't climb outside. It is one of the downsides of living in the Netherlands, we have no rock! Ok Font is not too far away but still a 5 to 6 hour drive and that simply didn't work out. This didn't mean that nothing happened. I kind of lost my motivation for competitions, that's the reason that I quit the Dutch team. Next year no worldcups for me. Why I lost my motivation for comps is all bit blurry for me, I think part of the disappointing results but also due to my ambitions on rock.
The motivation to perform well on real rock is just a lot bigger for me and because of a busier schedule I had to make a choice. The fact that I quit the international competition scene doesn't mean I lost my motivation to train. Thanks to a new bouldergym close to my home motivation even might have grown. Delfts Bleau is the first bouldergym near Rotterdam (only a 10 min drive for mRead More...
It can be really draining trying a problem over and over. And trying a single move for days on end can seem like a complete waste of time, particularly if you have the attention span of a goldfish, like me. Now, what was I saying? Oh yeah...I spied this beautiful prow about four months ago, but didn't even wander up to have a proper look at it until a couple of weeks later. I was immediately blown away by how perfect the rock was and how difficult each individual move would be. Initially, I was only able to do three of the eleven moves, but could conceive doing all but one of them.
I have done of lot of new problems this year and it has been incredible. Most of them have taken only a session or two to knock over, apart from the Taken, which due to its height proved more of an issue. But, I have lacked something really hard to throw myself at. This prow would be perfect. The crux is low to the ground, easily worked on without a spotter and it is close to home, so after work sessions Read More...
Moon Board T-shirt Competition
Okay now’s your chance to get both creative and on the front of a new Moon Board t-shirt!
We are currently working on some new t-shirt graphics and one of the ideas we are playing with is a montage of climbers Moon Boards. There are already some nice photos of your Moon Boards on the Moon Climbing website but we would like to see if you can do even better. The winning entries will get a free t-shirt and the glory that goes with being on the front of a Moon Climbing t-shirt. If you would like to give this a go you can use any of the following methods to send us your photos.
Upload to the Moon Climbing Facebook page.
Upload to the Moon Board website.
Email your files via the Moon Climbing website.
We don't have any special requests we just want good photos. They could be black and white or colour and could be with or without a climber, use your imagination but nothing that's going to ofRead More...
Last fall, when I did the Swiss/Italian route on Cima Ovest leading every pitch ground up onsight, I knew it was only the beginning of something bigger. I knew I had to keep exploring the routes in Tre Cime. The idea of trying to do three big routes in the Dolomites started to form in my head. What was growing on me was a sense that I really wanted to try and push myself on the walls of Tre Cime and in the Dolomites.
An evolving process
I knew that the routes I wanted to do in Tre Cime were much more demanding both mentally and physically compared to the Swiss route. In order to pull them off I would need to devote much more time to training than I usually do to get stronger. Normally I spend all winter and spring ice climbing and alpine climbing but this winter and spring of 2012 I devoted to staying in shape on rock, doing some indoor climbing as well as benefitting from excellent conditions in St Leger in February and March.
The goal to do the trilRead More...
Flashback to 8:19 pm, March 12, 2011, the Junior Indoor Bouldering Series finals. Specifically, to Final #4 and this dreadful rose move off a nasty crimper, which I’m pretty sure isn’t even intended to be a handhold. I understand exactly how you’re supposed to do the move—rose moves are the basis of American setting, after all—yet my elbow is refusing to cooperate and lock-off long enough for me to reach the next hold. Which happens to be a jug. Ugh.
Needless to say, I did not place very well, and ended up in a disappointing 7th. However, this one move made me reassess my entire training regimen (or lack thereof). As far as climbing is concerned, I Read More...