Magic Wood, one of my favorite places in the world. Good bouldering and the most stunning forest you'll ever see in your life. I had mixed goals in Magic, on the one hand I wanted to do some eight degree boulders, but on the other hand I wanted to push my level a bit and work in New Base Line (8b+). Working in an 8b+ and try to send multiple 8's isn't an option in just one week. I've discovered that I have a hard time projecting a boulder over multiple days if the time is limited. If I have for example a month and there is now time pressure I have no problems with longer projects, but if I am on a short trip the urge to have some quick successes usually has the upper hand.
Besides this urge to have some quick sends, it was warm in the forest. Not just a bit warmer than usual but more like boiling hot. On the other hand it only rained a few times in the evening. So we were lucky with the weather, it was just impossible for me to try New Base Line. Instead I did some other vRead More...
In my latest months I spendmy “Climbing time” in Gressoney Valley, in a cliff called La Benedizionethat isIn my opinion the best crag in Aosta Valley. All the routes are completely natural, crazy rock and it is situated in a special place, near a big waterfalland mountain meadows
My project this year was Devils and Dust 8a+ that as the most lines here is downgraded so I spend 4 days of hard work to get the chain. The First day I tried the whole line to figure out the right beta but I felt the two cruxes really hard and I seemed to have no chance. The route was such impressive so I was looking forward to try it again.
The days after I managed to link the two cruxes and to have good attempts aRead More...
I recently came home from 2-weeks of climbing in the Briancon area and the climbing was over expectations! The place was a good choice for me and my family since we wanted to go in the summertime but didn't want to climb in the heat. And of course it was a great opportunity to visit our friend David and his family.
First of all I want to thank David for making this trip so awesome, showing us the best crags, routes, the best coaching and for letting me an Norea train on his fingerboard. It was much appreciated!
Moon athlete David looking strong (editors note: he looks fat...)
I could never have dreamed about how good it actually went for me. Although I had been sick and recently had a 5-weeks period witRead More...
In the previous weekend, on the 25th and 26th of May, the European youth bouldering championships were held in Switzerland. The competition was located amongst mountains in the city called Grindelwald.
Right after I finished my exam on friday the 24th I drove directly to Aalborg airport, flew to Copenhagen from where I continued to Zürich with my friend, Alexander. We arrived in Zürich at 19:35 (pm), and we had to continue our travel by train to Bern and afterwards to Interlaken Ost (in danish that sounds exactly like the translation of “a plate of cheese”, and after having had a very long day with both exams and long flights, we were both so exhausted and tired, that we were overly amused every single time the name of our destination was called up on the speaker. People must have thought we were completely retarded.) From “Interlaken Ost” we had to go by bus, to finally arrive at Grindelwald. At that time it was almost midnight. However, we were lucky that we lived only 1Read More...
Another short visit to the forest, unlike last time the forecast looked stable. My intentions were to have a few sessions in the Island. But those plans quickly evaporated when I warmed up on the first day. Conditions where 'summer like', not good for slopers but very good for chilling out. The first day we started at Rocher Guichot, a rather nice area that I never visited before. I briefly tried Le Bossu de Notre-Dame 7c+/8a. A nice boulder but not the best choice, sticking a sloper in the sun is hard when it is 23 degrees. I'll come back to finish this one for sure. We escaped to Rocher Gréau.
I wanted to try Le Toit du Gréau 8a, a north faced roof problem without slopers. That one felt hard, I couldn't even do the first move. Luckily the first move was the crux, the following moves still felt hard but not as vicious as the first. I doubted if I could do this one within a few days. In the evening I checked some video's Read More...
The Winter season is over and now I focused my time on sport climbing, in these months I visited some nice crags like:
St LEGER and MALAUCENE (France)
I decided to go to this new crag for me because a friend of mine bolted and opened a new route called THEJOKER graded 8a and advised me to try it.
My brother made the first try to understand the right holds sequence and he explained me the moves, so I decided to do a strong flash go but I failed it because I fell on the last move of the crux, I was happy anyway for my performance and I focused my mind immediately for the second attempt, after a good rest I climbed really well, without mistakes completing the route, and making the second ascent. I used a different beta thanRead More...
Just after Christmas Holiday, I focused my "climbing time" on bouldering because the temperatures were too cold for sport climbing. I decided to visit some good bouldering spots with my brother and some friends.
The first place we visited was Donnas, in Aosta Valley where we and a lot of people are discovering and brushing lots of good new problems. I had two boulders in my mind Klettermachine 8a and Mucca Pazza 7c+. I started trying Klettermachine because I did the "Stand start" in fact I had to link just the first one move to complete the full boulder. After 30 minutes of work I climbed all the moves and I was super satisfated! Klettermachine is done, It's Mucca pazza time! :D
I had some problems understanding the moves of Mucca pazza, because it's really powerfull boulder composed of five moves on bad slopers and funny toe/hell hooks, COMPLETLY MY ANTI-STYLE! I needed two days of hard work to figure out all the moves and then I CrRead More...
Last autumn with a big team of friend and some of the best french climbers (Mickael Fuselier, Nina Caprez, Cedric Lachat, Florence Pinet, Gerome Pouvreau…) we all heeded out went to Red River Gorge the famous sandstone cliff in Kentucky before going to Argentina and participate in the Petzl Roc Trip. As you can all imagine we had a blast.
The place is amazing and really lives up to its reputation! The rock quality is just amazing and very fun to climb on. What I appreciated was the fact that there are so many different styles of climbing. Long rout very steep or vertical line with crimp.
The first days are little difficult and you need to be very humble to get use to this very physical and different style of climbing compared to what I'm used to from the area around Briançon with its particular style !!! But when you adapt it’s fantastic to climb on all the sectors. Its magic to be in the « mystic » woods.
RRG is a good spot for every one as there are many routes iRead More...