I am with friends in Siruana at the moment for a short sport-climbing holiday. It’s probably the first sport-climbing trip in about 15 years and I have to say it’s been a huge amount of fun. Most of the friends I am with are of a similar age to myself and we all lead very different lifestyles to those we lived 15 or 20 years ago. The past few days have brought back many fond memories of past trips when younger and confirms why we all love climbing so much even whilst failing at it!
I’ve heard so much about Siruana over the years but have never had the pleasure of climbing here but it hasn’t disappointed. Quite a few people told me the style was old school and I would have to agree but for me this is definitely a positive. Most of the climbs vary from just off vertical to slightly overhanging and the style generally is fingery and quite technical. Yesterday we bumped in to the legendary Tony Arbones who put up many of the classic Siruana hard routes of the 80s and 90s and is Read More...
So the year passed by, just like that - or so it feels, now, afterwards, when I can do nothing about anything that happened but leaf through the memories and events in my mind.
To make what could have been a very long story very short I have chosen a few events just to summon up an outline of 2012 from my perspective. I have purposely chosen not to write (whine) about injuries, school and other depressing stuff even though I must admit that these has been kind of my own constant moan at times. One thing I will confirm, however, is that right now I have a stress fracture on my right shin-bone due to overtraining. Some scans revealed it a few weeks ago. And to make this a non-whining statement (like I just promised to save everyone from), I want to say that this will be over soon enough and that I can now fully climb agin. So no excuses.
Here are an outline of some of the main events with matching pictures from my 2012! Enjoy.
Well, yeah. Every day of climbing is usually a good one. But this year was full of really good days. There was no other year I improved so much than I did this one. I really felt and still feel the progress in climbing. Not just my strength, also my technique and especially my mind got stronger.
I started projecting and focusing on problems. I learned about dealing with success and failure and how to
The year 2012 is coming to an end and as one often does at the end of a year I find myself looking back, evaluating, reviewing and re-experiencing the year that has passed. I think about all the memorable climbing experiences I have had, all the fun and exciting things that happened, all the big highlights. And I also think about the things that were not so good, climbs I could not finish, trips and competitions that did not go as well as I hoped and things in my training and plans that I wish I had done differently. I also evaluate the decisions that I made and see how this has changed my life as a climber.
After I finished high school in the summer 2011 I decided to have one year where I just focused on climbing, training and traveling before I started university. Therefore when the year 2012 began I was in Spain doing sport climbing. I was in a pretty good shape after an autumn where I only had been climbing and not having to juggle schoolwork and training every day. I had a greaRead More...
Hi folks! I have small news for mankind and big news for me and my family – I am pregnant! Well, it aint since yesterday, just going through 6th month now and my belly clearly shows whats going on. Feeling really happy and excited about this change in my life although I was a bit confused at the beginning. We were just packing stuff for summer boulder tour when I found out the big news. For a moment we thought about cancelling our rock trip but quickly came to conclusion that 20 days in the Alps will be nice chance to isolate in nature, consolidate my mind and accept new situation.
Also I got really nice book about pregnancy from good friend of mine so I had chance to learn practical stuff about this new world I have suddenly entered. First few risky months were kind of stressfull but since than I started to feel much better physicaly and mentally. Right now I am in some flow state of mind, everything goes according the plan and hope it will keep this way till the end of the journRead More...
In the last period since the competitions ended I have spent a lot time rock climbing, especially in the Sport Climbing.
At the beginning of October a friend of mine and I decided to take part in a rock competitions in Liguria precisely on the famous walls of Monte Cucco.
The teams were composed of two climbers, I was with my friend Federico Andreoli. The rules were simple we had to climb the highest number of routes in 5 hours.
We managed to get to the third place.
The routes that I climbed were:
-Sauta 7bO.S.-The Edit 7bO.S.
-Block Trotter 7c+(Flash) I was very proud of me because I did the best performance of the day.
Two days later I went to Valtournenche in a crag called Chesod.
At this spot there is a route that has been opened by Iker Pou and repeated by Adam Ondra graded 8b,I was very motivated to try it and afRead More...
Since years travelling is a big part of the climbing game for me. I have to admit, that I am some kind of an addict, when it comes to climbing trips, exotic rocks and stuff like this. But honestly: Let the climber who is without sin cast the first stone. Climbing trips are boss!!
My small addiction goes along with some nerdy habits that used to get more intense during the years. For example the runningoutofmoney-month that occurs to be October, or the scrubs like fade ways whenever I see rocks in the back of a travel advertisement showing the usual 'almost naked girl in front of a landscape' -subject. Mostly the fadeaways are because of the rocks and me visualizing my fantasy’s doing the craziest new wave climbing hit on this very beautiful very innocent rocks far away from home and mankind.
My people at home get some kind of surreal when I actually get to see them without staring into a screen. My attention fades to zero when someone tells me that: 'the Routes at home are the Read More...
Last fall, when I did the Swiss/Italian route on Cima Ovest leading every pitch ground up onsight, I knew it was only the beginning of something bigger. I knew I had to keep exploring the routes in Tre Cime. The idea of trying to do three big routes in the Dolomites started to form in my head. What was growing on me was a sense that I really wanted to try and push myself on the walls of Tre Cime and in the Dolomites.
An evolving process
I knew that the routes I wanted to do in Tre Cime were much more demanding both mentally and physically compared to the Swiss route. In order to pull them off I would need to devote much more time to training than I usually do to get stronger. Normally I spend all winter and spring ice climbing and alpine climbing but this winter and spring of 2012 I devoted to staying in shape on rock, doing some indoor climbing as well as benefitting from excellent conditions in St Leger in February and March.
The goal to do the trilRead More...