Guest blog by Chad Jensen - Alaska USA!Dear all its a pleasure for us to introduce Chad Jensen an keen climber a brilliant inventor from Alaska - USA. Chad has invented a brilliant system to show problems on the MOON Board. Below you will find Chad's guest blog and a link to the Video showing his super cool innovation. Thanks a bunch for sharing this with us Chad we are delighted! MOON Climbing
These last few years, I learned that I really need to add more bouldering into my training routine to be powerful enough to climb at the level I desire. The best bouldering system I’ve found that allows me to incorporate this training is the Moonboard. I love how many problems there are and the level of difficulty of the problems (although it was frustrating at first!). There is no cheating your training session on this board. The only problem I ran into is the taRead More...
There is lots of different playgrounds in climbing, and every playground requires not only different skills but also a different attitude towards it. First of all there are high walls, walls where you can´t just rappel in a single turn, walls to feed the little adventurer in you.
Further there is bouldering, the purest and most simple way to challenge yourself on a piece of rock. Then the ordinary crag climbing for the sporty spice in you. These walls can be the opposite of ordinary, when you discover them for the first time and every route is new and exciting to you.
Further you have the option of cleaniRead More...
In the past view weeks spring has finally arrived here in Austria, the cold and snow has vanished of our valley grounds, uncovering the near by blocs in the Ötztal from their hibernation... I personally love winter for all it's beauty and pleasures it offers here in the center of the Alps, hiking up the mountains and ride powder really can catch up with climbing that's for sure! But at the same time I can't wait to escape the crowded and dusty gyms and go climb for real again as soon as the local crags are on.
It all started a couple weeks ago when I headed out oRead More...
The winter didn’t start in the best of the ways this year. Maybe because of personal engagements, that kept me in my home area...
Maybe because of the terrible weather conditions we have had the last three months in Italy... Lets call them a series of unfortunate circumstances. :)
To be honest, there had been a few days of good weather at the beginning of the year. In my constant search for new lines in the area of Vitorchiano, I decided to emphasize two lines with two different stories. The first one was an old project that I called Dt. Manhattan, a nice roof with moves on very slopy holds. I fell off at least 30 times at the last hard movement. It was very hard to find the right sequence for hands and feet, the grade should settle on Fb 8A. Amaka was not born but rather reborn a problem so beautiful that I wanted to redo it. The grade should be around Fb 7C.
I returned home from my summer trip to France with an 8a red point, lots of other routes, a good tan and a feeling that I could, if I wanted to, get in a really great shape in a short period of time. But since the next international competitions I will be participating in is not set until october and november I chose to take it easy and enjoy what was left of my summer vacation.
However, this weekend on the 1st of september there was a competition located near the place I live. In Aalborg at the harbour frontage, a Deep Water Solo contest took place. Of course I had to participate!
In this life there is only one thing that I really, deeply hate; cold water. Even in the summer when it is 30 degrees outside and most people just dives into the nearest bathing place as quick as possible, it can actually take more than half an hour for me just to get my feet into the water. So to contest in a Deep Water Solo contest above a harbour has never even occurred as a possibility for Read More...
Perfect orange sand stone, awesome lines and shapes, a beautiful view and lots of good people. That’s what Rocklands is all about! I have spent the last four weeks in this bouldering paradise and it has truly been what any boulderer would dream of. This was my second trip to Rocklands. I was there last year as well and by the end of that trip I knew I had to come back this summer. There are so many boulders to try and so many areas to go. And still there seems to be a lot more potential! Most of the climbing is slightly, to very overhanging on good in-cut crimpers/holds and with mostly good friction. There are both small and safe boulders where you don’t need many pads or even a spotter, and there are high, beautiful and majestic lines with amazing moves and lots of climbing. There are good boulders on any level and the scenery is perfect!
I can finally write a new blog! :)
In the last months I have been very busy with school because I had the exams, but luckily the school is over and now I can climb seriously.
I trained a lot because I had some Italian Cup competitions to participate in.
-Italy Boulder Cup in Ivrea: 7th place
-Italy Boulder Cup in Firenze: 29th place (my worst comp, I was not really in shape).
-Italy Boulder Cup in Gressoney: 5th place (my best result, I was in the final with five other athletes, I was so happy.)
Some bouldering outside thatRead More...