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Name: Matteo Gambaro – Local Hero: Italy
Interview: Moon Climbing / january 2013
Moon Climbing – When and where did you start climbing?
Matteo Gambaro - Back in 1992, rebellious teenager struggling with the common adolescent problems, I happened to meet the world of vertical … In those years I lived with my family in a small village near Mondovi (Piedmont), where a group of active and romantic climbers, is made known everywhere as the “Monregalesi” bolting constantly new areas, especially in the Finale that, between the end of 80′s and early 90′s was one of the great centers of Italian Vertical, thanks to the enormous potential of cliffs still untapped.
Moon Climbing – Do you have a favorite style of climbing (traditional, sport, bouldering etc)?
Matteo Gambaro -I climb to 360 °, but my favorite style is the sport climbing, where I can express myself and where I always managed to exceed my limits and improve myself.
Moon Climbing – You are stuck on a desert island with just one route and one boulder. Which ones would you choose and why?
Matteo Gambaro - I choose .. ” the line” .. most beautiful and logical, no matter what style or difficulty.
Moon Climbing – Who is your climbing hero or inspiration and why?
Matteo Gambaro - When I started climbing, far from the age of the internet, I had the good fortune to meet in verdon Patrick Edlinger. I was struck by his incredible ability and his art of movement .. his book, the first video, workouts (still existing today), have inspired me and helped me a lot in my vertical growth.
Moon Climbing – How often do you climb?
Matteo Gambaro – Currently i manage with my girlfriend Elena Chiappa our Climbing Village Postodiblocco.com (gym, bar and shop).In addition to climb for myself I trace the routes in the gym and train our sports team guys. Say that I can rock climb two days a week where i am constantly looking for new projects, while the other two days were dedicated to training in the gym where I use the fingerboard, the campus board and a training wall.
Moon Climbing – Where and how often do you train and for how many hours per week?
Matteo Gambaro - I spend three hours a week to training with the fingerboard and campusboard in my gym, as I try to climb in other gyms at least one day a week to always try new routes and boulders that are not invented by me … for this reason I would like to build a Moonboard to encourage all our members and friends to invent new problems to share with your network and maybe repeat the problems of others ..
Moon Climbing – What kind of training do you do?
Matteo Gambaro - when I was preparing for the competitions I trained a lot with the overload, the time away from racing and a lot of climbing on the way to the gym, sacrificing the ‘rock climbing. Today, my first goal is extreme routes in the natural environment and my workouts are targeted to this .. work on my weak points: large muscles and explosive strength, while very little train my strengths: fingers and resistance … After so many years of climbing I always need new ideas and goals to keep you motivated!
Moon Climbing –Your top training tip or tips?
- If you do the professional athlete and you compete, you have to train hard in the gym and workouts.
If you work, and climb in the weekend and would like to meet and exceed your limits you have to train and always have new goals.
If you do not work and you can climb .. Wow! What are you waiting for… go to try the most beautiful and difficult line in the world!
Moon Climbing – The climbing achievement you are most proud of and why?
Matteo Gambaro - when I succeed in closing a project I feel happy and proud, especially when I put so much time and effort, but only for a moment .. right after I look around in search of new challenges and I think that what I did was not so impossible !
Moon Climbing – What is your opinion on competitions? Good, bad or indifferent?
Matteo Gambaro - Kids who excel in the World Cup are the best athletes in the world and deserve my respect and admiration, are the strongest. the experience I had in national and international competition has been very positive and helped me a lot for my performance on the rock. Get involved every time with other kids who like you want to win is very stressful, but I always found it a great atmosphere and great guys.
Moon Climbing – Your goals for 2013?
Matteo Gambaro - Last year at the age of 37 years i climbed my first 9a Abyss at Gorges du Loup (Fra) after my F.A. Azione diretta 8c+/9a of 2008 not repeated. yet… This year I would like to repeat routes of grade 9 and dedicate myself climbing on sight, where I think I still have room for improvement … I’d also try some line of reference of the 90 that I think are by no means out of fashion .. and maybe a trip to England!