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Name: Bernhard Fiedler – Local Hero: Austria
Interview: Moon Climbing / January 2013
Moon Climbing – When and where did you start climbing?
Bernhard – I started climbing in 1993 in small areas around my hometown vienna.
Moon Climbing – Do you have a favourite style of climbing (traditional, sport, bouldering etc)?
Bernhard - Whatever I do at that time is what I am into.
Moon Climbing – You are stuck on a desert island with just one route and one boulder. Which ones would you choose and why?
Bernhard - There is a hard run between ”lock stock and two smocking barrels“ on the diabolo wall in mallorca and ‘Groove Train’ on the Taipan wall in the Grampians.
With slight benefits for the first one, because going for the big jug and swinging out 12 meter above the see underneath makes me feel sooooo deeply satisfied.
Moon Climbing – Who is your climbing hero or inspiration and why?
Bernhard - A big part of my time and living and thinking is dominated by climbing. There won`t be the same berni without this sport. It offers me the medium, where my mind can dig in, in the most intense way I know. It occurs that time almost freeze and I can be the observer of myself being at the crucial point, whether or not I stick the critical move.
And there is people, there is the constant searching, and the travelling, the wasted time and body,… I want to thank people like Güllich or Loskot or Sharma, who helped me discovering the potential and the beauty of this sport, by doing, what they did.
Moon Climbing – How often do you climb?
Bernhard - that’s very adaptable; around 4 times a week
Moon Climbing – Where and how often do you train and for how many hours per week?
Bernhard - Mostly I train in gyms. In winter about four to five times a week, when I am skiing the gymdays drop to two times a week. When there is climbable weather I go grap some real rock.
Moon Climbing – What kind of training do you do?
Bernhard - I do ordinary stuff like bouldering or campus. I try to vary the walls, the boulders and the training a lot, so as not to get used to it. And usually every summer I take about one month off beeing a lacy surfbum lounging around on sandy beach telling everybody what a stunner I am when it’s pumping
Moon Climbing – Your top training tip or tips?
Bernhard - stay hungry; train hard and be kind to your body…. afterwards (no need to draw any comparisons on that one :))
Moon Climbing – The climbing achievement you are most proud of and why?
Bernhard - Route: “Blut & Honig“ 8c+ first ascent; because in the beginning, it felt so impossible. Boulder: “Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close“ 8B FA boulder; I worked for almost 2 years and for me, it’s still a mystery how I managed to climb it. And ‘Madiba’ 8B/B+ in the Rocklands; always special doing something hard on a climbingtrip… no skin, last day, last chance… just perfect
Moon Climbing – What is your opinion on competitions? Good, bad or indifferent?
Bernhard - Comps are fine, as long as competitors know how to win or loose.
Moon Climbing – Your goals for 2013?
Right now I focus on a very physikal projekt 90 minutes away from where I live which can be in the 9a range. I am glad to have found something near home that is not only hard, but due to it’s beauty and style also worth the ammount of time and energy needed.
In June I have a couple of days deep water soloing in mallorca with a bunch of friends. There is a filmer comeing as well.
In July Rocklands is the playground! I am currently on my campusboard to arrive in good shape there. I plan to focus on some hard nuggets, because it will be my seventh’s trip there and the ‘notsohard nuggets’ are already done ;). There is ‘ray of light’; ‘mooiste meissie’; ‘all I’m looking for Is a smile’; ‘armed response’; ‘el corazon’…on my mind
August: surfing in Sri Lanka with some sweet easy boulders on the beaches
September/Oktober: either bouldering in North India or eurotripping
Then I would love to climb the following three big lines, that are outstanding beautiful and hard:
First: the hörhager route ‘the source’ 8c+ on the schwarze wand in zillertal.
Secound: ‘grittyshaker’ in salzburg where an ascent has jet to come since a crucial hold broke off.
Third: there is ‘THE’ projekt (prop. In the 9a range) in roc/croatia left of ‘ruby silence’ 8c/c+ which I could not send last january. All those moves are figured out jet -time to send!!