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Name: Emanuel Moosburger - Austria
Interview: Moon Climbing / January 2015
Ben MOON sent the worlds first ever 9a and you are now part of the MOON team, how will you contribute to the legacy of the MOON brand?
- Pull as hard as I can! And share the spirit and passion of our sport! A muerte!!!
Aspirations and ambitions are key drivers for all top climbers. But how do you deal with defeat?
- I try to take it as it is, think positive and make the best out of it. In training, defeats can even be your best motivator. Also some of my hardest and proudest ascents on rock, routes or boulders, in the past were so special to me because at first they started with a great defeat and therefore the challenge to overcome was even bigger. For me that could mean to try something hard on a style that I know I am not good on. Stuff like that makes you improve the most over the years.
And it helps to always remember that those rocks don’t grow feet and run away. So usually you just get back on them if you fail. And until you finally top out, every defeat is just another trainingsession making you stronger and wiser, that’s all.
“Train Hard – Climb Harder” is a MOON motto. Share one of your secrets with us.
- Finger strength. Having strong fingers is what always makes the difference for me. So do some Deadhanging. Boring, but really effective!
What will you change in your training regime for 2015 to improve your climbing standard?
- No big differences I guess, maybe a slight more bit of endurance as I am eyeing on doing some more alpine climbing and alpine sport climbing this year.
We all say we climb for fun but be brutally honest what is really driving you?
- It’s really just like that! The cool thing in our sport is it’s diversity and the possibilities you have in order to get that joy. Bouldering, Route climbing, Multipitch, Alpine climbing, Deep Water…. Projecting, on-sighting, easy-going days…. Whatever you like! The three things however that drive me the most are projecting, exploration and long adventurous days on a wall.
If you have to put a number to your ambitions for 2015 what would that be and are you raising the bar enough to be uncomfortable?
- What kind of number? A grade? To be honest, what inspires me the most is the climb and not it’s number. A number of cool projects sent in 2015 is my ambition!
What is important? To achieve a new grade this year or send a long standing project?
- The second. The first is often the bonus of the second.
Progressing in climbing is impossible with out some sacrifice’s, what is going to have to take a back seat in 2015 in order for you to make that goal happen?
- Other sports I guess. Like Skiing and Mountain biking.
What will you do in 2015 to help inspire those who follow MOON?
- Try hard and be on it with passion and enthusiasm, as always!
We all follow climbing gossip and news. What inspired you in 2014 and what pissed you off in 2014?
- Definitely Tommy and Kevin free climbing the Dawn Wall and Jimmy Webb hiking up the hard stuff was most inspiring! All the whining on the Dawn Wall ascent from all those people who don’t know the difference between free climbing and free soloing was most annoying.
Ok its time to have an opinion. Is it ok to improve the style of a climb and shop off bolts on a route with out asking the FA for permission (given you sent it on natural gear)?
- For me it is totally worthwhile to try to naturally protect a route instead of bolts if it is obviously doable and the route is within a context where that style of climbing is common or makes sense (i.e. cracks, etc.). Not asking the First Ascender is not good, simply because you should show some respect.
Tell us what you think will be your most ambitious and inspiring projects for 2015.
- If everything goes well I want to do some bigger walls in 2015. One of them is a route with 26 pitches in alpine terrain. That would be some new adventure and challenge for me for sure. I want to have some long days on the walls this year and see how I like it. There is loads of progression in that terrain for me to test out.
Tell us what is the most hyped route or boulder you ever climbed that was actually just hyped and not at all that good or as hard as perceived?
- Detailed question… Maybe the climbing in Massone?? I remember how hyped it was and how excited I was to go there as a young boy. I was very disappointed of it when I climbed there for the first time, polished and crowded.
Suggest a few routes or problems you think any climber with some self-respect should have on their bucket list.
- Carnage (Font), Vecchio Leone (Ticino), The Mandala (Bishop) and The Vice (Rocklands) for sure are some of the very best and/or classic boulders I have done. Ammagamma (Grampians) is still very high on my list and my main reason to do a trip to Australia some time. Among the routes I have done, Love 2.0 (Zillertal), La Femme blanche (Ceüse), Herkules (Frankenjura) are class and/or classic, and if you can climb 9a, then go for Hubble and Action Direct of course!!
- Because it’s part of climbing history. The designs and functionality of the products really reflect a long background, lots of experience and know – how of our sport.