Climbing / Climbers / Isaac Caldiero
Name: Isaac Caldiero
Interview By: Ben Moon January 2013
Isaac and Galina is our US climbing team! Although I have only met him once I had heard a number of people whose opinions I respect, singing his praises. Not only has he climbed extensively in the US but has also climbed and traveled in Europe. I note with interest that one of his top route recommendations is Ravage in Switzerland. This is one of Antoine Le Menestral’s many classic contribution to the world of hard sport climbing which started in earnest in the mid 80s. At 23 years of age I wonder whether Isaac will know who Antoine is!
BM – When and where did you start climbing?
IC - Summer of 1997 in Provo Utah
BM – Do you have a favorite style of climbing (traditional, sport, bouldering etc)?
IC - Definitely prefer bouldering, although I find myself from time to time on a rope, or climbing routes without a rope just to make it a little more exciting
BM – What would be your top route recommendations in the USA?
IC -Biographie (9a) Ceuse, France, because its hands down the most inspiring piece of rock that exists. The Shield (8a+) LRC Tennessee, because the movement and quality of the rock is unparalleled.
BM – And abroad?
IC - Ravage (8C) Baseljura Suisse, Baboon(8a) Boki Suisse.
BM – What would be your top boulder problem recommendations in the USA?
IC - Mandala (8A+) Buttermilks CA, Jitterbug Perfume(8A) Joes Valley UT, Bully(8A) LCC UT, Gription (7C+)Moes Ut.
BM – And abroad?
IC - Karma (8A) Font, Hyper Tension (8a) Font, Control Technique (7B+) Font, Molunk (7C+) Brione, Suisse, Entwash (8A+) Brione, Suisse, Le Grotte De Soupirs (7C+) Cresciano Suisse.
BM – How often do you climb?
IC - When I’m not being slave drivin at the job site I get grips on the rock every day possible, anywhere from 5-7 days a week.
BM – How often do you train and for how many hours per session?
IC - Really don’t train to often in the gym cause there is always somewhere to climb with outside but when in the gym about 3 hours a session.
BM – Where do you train?
IC - I am fortunate enough to have year round rock climbing available, so all my magical training happens upon the rocks.
BM – What kind of training do you do?
IC - Huge circuits of my most favorite blocs, and then burnout on my project at the end of the day.
BM – Your top training tip or tips?
IC Get your fingers really strong by dead hanging on small edges or campusing. Front levers are also great for core tension, I personally believe climbing on real rock is the best method of training and to be super motivated. You gotta know when to let go, otherwise your more prone to injury. I’ve only had injuries that are non climbing related like drunken mechanical bull riding. Being injured is a setback and no one likes to be injured.
BM – Your best achievement?
IC- My linkup in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah. I called it Bling 8B+, its a 22 move linkup of Ching 8a+ into Bully 8a.
BM – Your goals for 2013?
IC - As always to continue the mass development of new blocs for future generations. I really want to travel to South Africa and England, continue the mass development of perfect sandstone here in southern Utah and Boulder 8c!!