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Name: Ivan Lisica - Croatia
Interview: Moon Climbing / January 2015
Ben MOON sent the world’s first ever 9a and you are now part of the MOON team. How will you contribute to the legacy of the MOON brand?
- I will climb the best I can and I will continue to give stiff grades to my routes, just like Ben did with Hubble. Soft is not an option.
Aspirations and ambitions are key drivers for all top climbers. But how do you deal with defeat?
- Actually pretty good. I got used to defeats in my climbing because I always wanted to explore areas which didn´t suit me well. It is important not to be afraid of failure if you honestly want to work on yourself and improve. It depends a lot on how do you deal with your own ego.
“Train Hard – Climb Harder” is a MOON motto. Share one of your secrets with us.
- Work your weakness. Sounds like cliché but it is one of the greatest ˝secrets˝ of successful training.
What will you change in your training regime for 2015 to improve your climbing standard?
- I will try to increase my training volume throughout the year more gradually than I usually do and also include some new tools, like system board.
We all say we climb for fun, but be brutally honest, what is really driving you?
- Everybody has a way to spend this short life: climbing is my way. It is definitely a great way to spend it.
If you have to put a number to your ambitions for 2015, what would that be and are you raising the bar enough to be uncomfortable?
- I would like to tick some projects of mine which are somewhere in the 8c range. These routes are not easy for me and it would be a step forward to climb any of them, though I don’t feel uncomfortable. Maybe because they are often wet, I know that big part of the success is in God´s hand J.
What is important? To achieve a new grade this year or send a long-standing project?
- Long standing projects are always more important, no doubt for me.
Progressing in climbing is impossible without some sacrifices. What is going to have to take a back seat in 2015 for you to make that goal happen?
- No more spending time in the refrigerator late in the evening.
What will you do in 2015 to help inspire those who follow MOON?
- I noticed that people got really inspired by good blogs, regardless of whether they were about important climbs or just regular climbing life but written in an honest and interesting way. I would like to contribute some more.
We all follow climbing gossip and news. What inspired you in 2014 and what pissed you off?
- The French climber Quentin Chastagnier spent two weeks in Trogir, one of my local areas, and inspired me with some impressive performances and his attitude to climbing and life in general. I got pissed off by the constant lack of bolts – though this situation has lasted for years.
Ok it’s time to have an opinion. Is it ok to improve the style of a climb and chop off bolts on a route with out asking the FA for permission (given you sent it on natural gear)?
- I would show some respect for the guy who did the first ascent and definitely ask first. Btw I experienced a similar situation when I was 16. My buddy and I added some bolts to an old technical multipitch route because we were trying to climb it free and the old pegs were in really bad condition. One of the two guys who did the FA gave us permission, but the other one, who had stopped climbing years before this, got pissed. He called my mother on the phone (because we still didn´t have cell phones then) and told her that he will drill a bolt into my forehead. My mum didn’t know what a bolt is, so she stayed calm and just passed the message on. I love those early days!
Tell us what you think will be your most ambitious and inspiring projects for 2015.
- I have many longstanding and also new projects, but I didn’t make any concrete plan for 2015. Right now, I am one month into training after the Christmas break and it is going well. I will try to carry on, slowly building form without big plans and see what happens.
Tell us what is the most hyped route or boulder you ever climbed that was actually just hyped and not at all that good or as hard as perceived.
- I was disappointed when I tried the superclassic route Malvazija (8c+?) in Dvigrad, Croatia. The rock at the beginning of the route is pretty bad quality, and the crux is totally chipped, except for the last few meters where it is quite easy. There is a big hype about this route because it is old and has just had one repeat since the ‘80s. I respect all that and don’t question the difficulty of the route, but I really imagined it as a much better line. Too much hype is never good.
Suggest a few routes or problems you think any climber with some self-respect should have on their bucket list.
- All climbers should visit our local hot spot Markezina Greda and try to tick the trilogy: Mašta radi svašta, Krokodili dolaze and As, also known as the three hardest 6cs in the world!
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