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Name: Martin Keller – Local Hero: Switzerland
Interview: Moon Climbing / January 2013
Moon Climbing – How often do you climb?
Martin - I used to be 2-3times (days) a week out there on the perfect swizzy granite. But for the last 4months and the next 2months I was and will not climb at all. I managed to injure myself pretty bad last fall (ripped off my hamstrings from the bone) while going for the FA of my lifetime project (the highlander). I needed surgery and will not be back on rock before 6months, estimated time to back at 100% is 12+months…
Moon Climbing – Where and how often do you train and for how many hours per week?
Martin - Normally I just go indoors (bouldering) when the weather does not allow it to climb outdoors. My climbing is my training. But due to my injury I am not aloud to go climbing at all at the moment. So I have five times a week physiotherapy.
Moon Climbing – What kind of training do you do?
Martin - I am working hard to get my leg back working normally and I am doing a pretty intense core workout. But on the same time I have to be careful to not do too much, my leg still needs time to heel properly. I just started to go for the hangboard by the beginning of February and I am on the way for some campus board sessions to slowly get back into shape and to be prepared when I am aloud to go back on rock (July?!)
Moon Climbing – Your top training tip or tips?
Martin - By far the most important is to stay psyched. Get the principles of training. Listen to your body and don’t forget to rest! Everything else comes from alone. As I am not 15 anymore (35 actually), rest days are getting more and more important. I personally don’t like to climb with a “trashed” body and/or skin. I like to go climbing (outdoors) totally recovered. It’s much more fun and much more effective. More quality then quantity for me.
Moon Climbing – The climbing achievement you are most proud of and why?
Martin - The first ascent of “Der mit dem Fels tanzt, 8C” at Chironico at Spring 2012. It was a very long journey from not being able to climb one single move as I tried the line for the first time some six years ago, to solve the very complex puzzle of moves, to fall on the very last moves for 1.5years, to fall on the very last move over seven weeks, to finally making my way up to the top of that beautiful line in an epic battle with absolutely no power left for even one more move. That experience showed me again that you can do the impossible when you’re really, really want it and you are patient and motivated – even if it looks like a total hybris at the beginning. Just try – and do it
Moon Climbing – What is your opinion on competitions? Good, bad or indifferent?
Martin - I have just done a few comps. It was funny but I found it boring sitting around for hours for just a few minutes of climbing. And to spend time indoor when it’s sunny and nice outdoors it’s just a big no-go for me.
Moon Climbing – Your goals for 2013?
Martin - First and by far most important for me is to heal properly from my injury. On the same time I like to make use of the “free time” as I am not aloud to climb to get really strong. I can barley lock off a jug with one arm and i like to change that. That means fingerboard, campusboard and core exercises. And if I am really lucky I will be back exactly one year after my injury at the exact same place and get this “Highlander” done once and forever!!!