Climbing / Climbers / Martina Scheichl
Name: Martina Scheichl
Interview: Moon Climbing / January 2013
Moon Climbing – When and where did you start climbing?
Martina - Acutally i grew up with climbing because my dad was a fanatic climber. But my own climbing-fewer came up 4 years ago when I started to study in Innsbruck. Since that it got me and my whole life is just about that one thing: Climbing.
Moon Climbing – Do you have a favorite style of climbing (traditional, sport, bouldering etc)?
Martina - I prefer sportsclimbing and bouldering. I started with ropeclimbing – but with no power. So i had to learn to climb with a lot of techique, i love to compensate hard moves with a good foot-techique. When i met my boyfriend Gu – 2 years ago – i started to boulder too. In the beginning it was hard, because i wasn’t used to climb with pure power and do moves quick. But after a whole year of bouldering i became much stronger – also for ropeclimbing. But i have to admit: i’m still pretty slow – also in bouldering! Slow-moo. ☺
Moon Climbing – You are stuck on a desert island with just one route and one boulder. Which ones would you choose and why?
Martina - I would choose the route. Because it would be a boulder-route, with a lot of hard moves, but at least 30 m long. I could try to get closer to the top. Step by step. I love working on a route and get closer to the top every time i try!
Moon Climbing – Who is your climbing hero or inspiration and why?
Martina - My dad: he knows everything about good technique! And he also started quite late. But also a lot of strong boulderguys like Gu inspire me. He gives everything about his dream come true to be a worldclass boulderer and he just do what makes him better in climbing
Moon Climbing - How often do you climb?
Martina - Normally 5 times a week
Moon Climbing – Where and how often do you train and for how many hours per week?
Martina - Since I moved to Innsbruck I try to train a little. But its quite hard for me because I’m not used to indoor training. But all of my training is just for one reason: Becoming stronger on the rock, so I prefer going to the rock every time its possible.
Moon Climbing – What kind of training do you do?
Martina - I try to train like all the other athletes that climbing competition. Mostly I try to get rid of my weaknesses and improve them. For example: I have weak fingers on crimps… Besides that I do (from time to time) body tension training and train my abs (but it’s tiring)
Moon Climbing –Your top training tip or tips?
Martina - Do what you think its the best for the moment. And Abs training.
Moon Climbing – The climbing achievement you are most proud of and why?
Martina - I already answered this question half a year ago and now that I look at it again I realise that there is no single climbing achievement I’m proud of. It’s more the hole progress I experienced since I started climbing. The first 3 years of my climbing “career” I climbed “just” for fun – no focus on projects, no goals and stuff… That changed a lot the last 2 years and since then I made a lot of progress and its amazing to see that progress from time to time. The style of your climbing is changing, and that’s actually the biggest achievement u can have.
Moon Climbing - What is your opinion on competitions? Good, bad or indifferent?
Martina - I would climb comps from time to time – if i would be used to gym climbing and if i wouldn’t injure myselfe all the time in comps. But i would never focos all my life in comps. The real climbing is out there in the wood, desert, beach.. everywhere –but no only in the gym.
Moon Climbing – Your goals for 2013?
Martina - I already opened my outdoor-season in Teneriffa where I spent most of February. So the nearer goal is not to go to many times to the gym now. More over viewing goals: reaching a new personal limit of climbing. Travelling, hang out with nice and chill with friends and meet new ones.