Climbing / Climbers / Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen
Name: Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen
Interview: Moon Climbing / January 2013
Moon Climbing – When and where did you start climbing?
Michiel - I started climbing when I was 12 (or early 13) in SteepPart. SteepPartwas a new gym and it was build only 5min from my home, together with a friend I did the first children’s course in that gym. After that I climbed a little bit like twice a month for 2 years. When I stopped playing football (don’t hate me please) I started to climb more and more.
Moon Climbing – Do you have a favourite style of climbing (traditional, sport, bouldering etc)?
Michiel - I used to do both lead climbing and bouldering but the last years I’am more focused on bouldering. In the gym I don’t like leadclimbing, but outdoors it is great. So in the gym I only boulder and outdoors I like both.
Moon Climbing – You are stuck on a desert island with just one route and one boulder. Which ones would you choose and why?
Michiel - I’ll choose the Island from Font. Since I tried it last year I can’t get it out of my head.
Moon Climbing – Who is your climbing hero or inspiration and why?
Michiel - Pffffffffffff I don’t know. I think the Gullich, Moffat, Moon generation.
Moon Climbing - How often do you climb?
Michiel - 3 or 4 times a week when I am at home, more when I am outdoor.
Moon Climbing – Where and how often do you train and for how many hours per week?
Michiel - Last year a new bouldergym (Delfts Bleau) has opened near my home. I haven’t trained anywhere else since then. When I’m training I only boulder. I try to switch between days where I try hard projects and days where I do a lot of medium hard boulders.
Moon Climbing – What kind of training do you do?
Michiel - - Bouldering, bouldering and some more bouldering
Moon Climbing - Your top training tip or tips?
Michiel - I don’t know if it is a good tip but it works for me. Go 100% (almost) every training, don’t spare your body. But if you train this way I think you need to take your rest between training days and listen to your body. Besides that make shure you have a good time in the gym, motivation is the key I guess.
Moon Climbing – The climbing achievement you are most proud of and why?
Michiel - El quiebraley, 8c in Rodellar (lead), it was a longstanding mission to send an 8c and it was a huge battle to do it. I am also proud of my three 8b boulders: the Riverbed in Magic Wood, I shot Sarconazy assis in Targasonne and Psoas Mole also in Targasonne. Especially Riverbed was special, the first 8b boulder.
Moon Climbing - What is your opinion on competitions? Good, bad or indifferent?
Michiel - I like rock more! I think that competitions and outdoor climbing are two different things. I like comps (have to like them as a member of the Dutch team). This year I’ll climb some boulder worldcups and I am pretty psyched for those.
Moon Climbing – Your goals for 2013?
Michiel - I tried the Island (8b+, in Font) in december 2012. Definitely the hardest problem I ever tried. But since that day the Island is in my mind, I want to do it. I don’t know if I will do it in 2013 but I’ll give it my best effort. This summer I want to go to Sweden (Vastervik) and I want to do the Hourglass (8b). Years ago I saw a little film of this boulder and since then I want to go there.