Climbing / Climbers / Phillip Schaal
Name: Phillip Schaal
Interview: Moon Climbing / January 2012
Moon Climbing – When and where did you start climbing?
Phillip - I started climbing in Connecticut in 1995.
Moon Climbing – Do you have a favorite style of climbing (traditional, sport, bouldering etc)?
Phillip - At the moment I prefer Bouldering. The freedom bouldering offers is hard to beat. I do have a solid background in both, trad and sport all well.
Moon Climbing – You are stuck on a desert island with just one route and one boulder. Which ones would you choose and why?
Phillip - If I was in that situation I would have to pick…. Vechia Lione, in Switzerland for a Boulder and Punt X in France for a route. Those two come to mind because I have never seen them in person. I’m just dying to..
Moon Climbing – Who is your climbing hero or inspiration and why?
Phillip - It may sound silly but growing up my friends and I would love reading about and watching Ben, Jerry, and Malcom. When Stone Love came out I must have watched it hundreds of times. When the Real Thing came out it was like the birth of Bouldering came out along with it.
Moon Climbing - How often do you climb?
Phillip - I usually climb 4-5 days a week if i’m training in the gym or not climbing on projects outside much. If i’m climbing outside more that indoors, I’ll throw in a few more rest days and climb 3-4 days a week.
Moon Climbing – Where and how often do you train and for how many hours per week?
Phillip - Since I live in Boulder, CO I have many options for training. Cats, and Movement are some of my favorites gyms. But I find the best training sessions I have are on my friends board in his shed. I never really climb for more than 2 hours in a session.
Moon Climbing – What kind of training do you do?
Phillip -I try to mix up finger boarding and campusing. Sometimes I get into double sesh’s like a finger board in the a.m. and then a gym sesh in the eve.
Moon Climbing - Your top training tip or tips?
Phillip -Quality over quantity. And try to finish strong. Building power up is better than getting buried under fatigue.
Moon Climbing – The climbing achievement you are most proud of and why?
Phillip - My proudest achievement is just where all my hard work has gotten me in climbing. I started out a short chubby kid that could not do single pull-up.
Moon Climbing - What is your opinion on competitions? Good, bad or indifferent?
Phillip - Competitions in my opinion are good. I never devoted enough specific training to ever excel at them but I like the nature of competitions. Bringing your A-game is what is all about.
Moon Climbing – Your goals for 2012?
Phillip - My goals for 2011 are to keep training hard. Getting out there climbing. Visiting as many different areas that I can.