Climbing / Climbers / Rok Klančnik
Name: Rok Klančnik
Interview: Moon Climbing / January 2013
Moon Climbing – When and where did you start climbing?
Rok - I started climbing in my home town (Slovenj Gradec) in 1998.
Moon Climbing – Do you have a favorite style of climbing (traditional, sport, bouldering etc)?
Rok – Bouldering only!
Moon Climbing – You are stuck on a desert island with just one route and one boulder. Which ones would you choose and why?
Rok – Ufff, hard decision. For route, I would choose a short one. Maybe Action directe. I would say I would choose between the dreamtime block and Bügeleisen in Maltatal. Lines on the dreamtime block are amazing and hard, that is what i like. As for Bügeleisen, I think this is the first real 8c! Even though they say it is 8b+, I think it’s harder then every 8b+ and also harder then some 8c’s. And it’s definitely my stile, crimps.
Moon Climbing – Who is your climbing hero or inspiration and why?
Rok – Klem Loskot. He is the father of hard bouldering. Even now, when he returned from many years not climbing, he’s at the top!
Moon Climbing - How often do you climb?
Rok – Depends on the time of the year. In Summer, maybe twice a week. When there are conditions, as much as I can.
Moon Climbing – Where and how often do you train and for how many hours per week?
Rok – I wouldn’t say I train. More like climbing a lot. Days of competitions and hard trainings are over. If I want to be stronger, I just climb more often and longer.
Moon Climbing – What kind of training do you do?
Rok – Just climbing now.
Moon Climbing –Your top training tip or tips?
Rok – The most important part of a training session is rest.
Moon Climbing – The climbing achievement you are most proud of and why?
Rok – Amandla and new base line, both 8b+. Amandla a bit more, because I did it in just 4 tries and I it just felt amazing.
Moon Climbing - What is your opinion on competitions? Good, bad or indifferent?
Rok – Well, I used to compete a long time ago and didn’t enjoy it very much. But I think a lot of people do. So, competitions are good and they’re bad, depends on your state of mind.
Moon Climbing – Your goals for 2013?
Rok – Two big projects: Bügeleisen in Maltatal and From dirt grows flowers in Chironico (already fell from last move).