Moon Blog / Route Climbing / Back in the days!
Back in the days!
During these months I was able to travel a lot with my friends and with my family. In particular in August I spent ten days in Briançon, because my brother Marco and I prefered to check new climbing cliffs instead of going as usual to Ceuse. We pratically climbed in three beautiful crags:
-Rue des masques
Face Bouc is situated in Ailefroide Valley, a great steep granite wall with fantastic routes. In one day I managed to climb three different lines here, I was very amused! The easy routes to the very left of the crag were all in the sun so I decided to warm up on Cambonne Beurre 7a+ but when I arrived at the anchor I realised that this was wrong way to start the day because I felt quite pumpy and “locked” but after a great rest I felt OK.
The second route was Fiaschi Natique 7c+ just on the left of Cambonne Beurre, this route is composed of a weird and sensitive traverse in the middle, fortunately in my second attempt I understood how to solved those strange moves and I was able to reach the chain. WELL DONE!
After the 7c+ I decided to changed completely style of climbing in fact I tried Punishman Park, an amazing and long 7c. I “prepared” my mind and my body to fight with the fatigue, after 15 minutes of O.S. climbing I put the rope at the the of the route. I was soooo HAPPY! the trip was started well.
Then we spent three days in La Saume that is in my opinion the best place I’ve seen in Briançon. This increadible cliff is 2100 meters high surrounded by mountains meadows,small streams and big limestone boulders..a perfect environment! Some tufas, some pockets and lots of crimps are features of this amazing limestone in fact the climbing is super funny and the routes are increadible!
The first day many routes were quite wet, I decided to climb in the overhang sector to avoid the humid holds, after a good warm up on fantastic easy routes I try a new route just on the right of the classic “La saume sweet home”. This new line has not a name and it’s graded 8a+ so I try understand the rigth way to climb it but in the middle there weren’t holds chalked so I did not understand how to do it. A friend of mine told me the right sequence how to to solved the boulder so it’s looked really flashable.
I was able to climbed the first boulder quite fast and I got the rest on good slopers, after few minutes to shake my forearm I started for the second crux and after having stick hard two crimps I found myself above the short roof! I was really pumped so it has been an uphill battle to reach the chain. My first 8a+ Flash! WOW! Thanks to all of my friends for the support and the beta!
The second day up there I decided to warm up on differt routes so I try Gazpatcho 7a+ because was the routes that ispire me more in fact i can define it one of the best 7a+ I’ve ever climbed, crazy moves and crazy rock..
Unfortunately it was quite wet in the middle and on my O.S. attempt my both hands slipped from two little pockets and in one second I was locked by the rope! Just before the second try I dried up the wet holds and finally I climbed easily this amazing wall.
I was really sycked to climb onsight again and this time I put my eyes on God Michou 7b+, situated to the most right of big wall, that consists in a great travers, form the right to the left, on quite good slopers and crimps into an endurance route. I did it! and I immediately looked the giudebook to search a new project! My eyes fell on Bete de Saume 8a+ that had some wet tufas but I get the first try just to understand and memorize the moves.
The route is characterized by a weird boulder in the middle with a little tufa and by a long move to stick the jug, just after the tufa sequence! I had a great second go, I did the first part and the hard boulder but I felt at the very last move. Nooo!! DAMN?! The day after I came back very focus to complete the project; I dried up the first part and I retry the fucking last move that rejected me the day before.. This time was OK. I took a rest but at the same time I focused to crush it!
My time came really quickly so I started to climb reaching the jug not so tired, I dried my hands and I crushed the boulder quite well so just a move one hard diveded me from the ancor, I shaked very well the left hand for the shoulder moves and I did the dynamic move to the jug. Yes I sticked it!! Now I thought in my mind: “Andrea stay focused you have just 10 easy moves” in fact everything went ok and I was so proud to have finished the project! In my opinion it’s the best line that I climbed in this wall, really good!
We spent the next days in Rue des masques where I climbed some great routes:like Gugus, tube de l’annèe 7b O.S. and Tardinio Direct 7c+ 2nd go.
The 4th day of climbing I felt quite tired but I anyway climbed in Rue des masques, because was basically our last day in France, during the warmp up I felt not bad how I expected..but I decided to do three 6c to not get tired and to not destroy too my remained skin. Meanwhile two friends of mine arrived at the cliff, Luca Rinaldi and Martina Blanchet.
Both are trying Racing in the street 8b so I decided to try it with them even if I wasn’t still “ready” to get a try, but I got it the same. I was so motivated because the route looked simply amazing and during the climbing Luca explained me perfectely the beta and without thinking but just sticking hard all holds I reached the jugs just before the top. I was a bit afraid to stop shaking the arm even if Luca told me that was really easy go to the chain so I “took courage” and I started climbing again and finally I arrived at the chain! WHAT A CRAZY MOMENT!
I was soooo happy and disbelief about this amazing effort, luckily everything went in the right way and I was able to send my first 8b flash! Who knows when the next?!? It was a big day just for me but as well for Martina because she has sent the 8b just after me. GOOD JOB GIRL!! I want also make a huge thanks to Luca to have explained me perfectly all the moves.
Another adventure in France was over, but other beautiful climbing days were waiting for me. My brother Marco and I spent one day in Valgrisenche valley, in a crag called Falesia dell’Obliquo, where I was able to onsight few routes: Xylene 7b+ O.S. La Panzona 7c O.S.
One day in Valtournenche Valley, in a crag called Barmasse, where I climbed: Casi Zolu 7c O.S.
Here I also tried great route opened by Iker Pou and reapeted by Adam Ondra graded from them 8b+ but I failed in the crux two times in a row and I would like to come back soon to try to complete this project.
Two days in a crag called Donnas, where ,in my opinion, I climbed the best two routes in the low part of Aosta Valley: Ghiaccio 7c Flash (S.A.), bolted by Ulde and climbed as the first ascent by my brother Marco. Conference 8a+ 4th go, hard fingery boulder on sharp and sloper crimps, I ‘m really pruod to have established the second ascents on this one.
Now it’s time to train hard because the next adventure it’s very close; I will be from October the 1st to October the 10th to Kalymnos trying to get some hard stuff or at least to have fun.
Nice climbing days to everybody!
See you at the next blog.