Moon Blog / Bouldering / Brilliant Days spent at Anston
Brilliant Days spent at Anston
Just a quick note on my recent success on completing my first 8B bloc. It’s called keen roof at Raven Tor, it took around 7 sessions and finally got done about 2 weeks ago, Very happy!!
Anston Stones – This is an area that was developed about 4 years ago, and has recently become popular with a new guide book having been published . Magnesium Limestone offers a different opportunity and style for great climbing! This is a fantastic bouldering area with a full range of problems to go at. I remembered going with some friends for a day over a year ago and thought It was about time to head back a try some of the harder lines.
Day 1 – This was with my good friend Ethan Walker who was also keen to check it out. We started off by warming up on some of the 7A problems and then got stuck in with some harder stuff. First to fall was Quarantine 8A. This was a fantastic crimpy traverse with poor feet. Next up was the classic Dark Art 8A, a very small but tricky bloc with some tension foot moves. After feeling strong on these I thought to try its neighbour Black Crow 7C+, to my surprise this went down in a few tries. We both then decided to go further down to another buttress to try this super steep 7C+ boulder called Soul Crusher, again after a few tries working out the foot beta Ethan and myself sent the problem! After having some lunch we wanted to try the low start into Soul Crusher at around 8A. The first few moves were pretty tough but we still had enough in the tank to pull it off and send it to the end. After this there were still some problems on the list which we went to try out, one called The Vision and the other The Phoenix both at around 7C. They both went down just as the light was fading! Perfect ending to a great bouldering session.
Day 2 – Without going into detail about these next problems I thought I would just write you a list of what I managed on this day. I went along with another friend James Noble who has pretty much ticked every problem in the area, so knows where to find some of the hidden crags. After warming up slowly I managed to climb and flash some fantastic problems such as Jack The Nipper 7B+, Seamon Stains 7C (flash), Everything Before 7C (flash), Into The Light 7C (flash) Free Mason 7B+ and Frodo 7B+. Thanks to James Noble (not from the editor: James is one helle of a nice guy and bad ass climber) who gave me some amazing beta and psyche!
Day 3 – With a great crew of people we headed back for another hit at Anston, again I had a rather good day after sending some brilliant problems including Wrestling with my dangerous soul 8A, Dark Beta 8A, Vanilla Sky 8A+, and finishing the day with Black Tufa Reservation 7C.
Day 4 – Today was yet another good day although I was feeling rather tired! I managed to climb a problem which I have wanted to complete , this was called White Light 8A. After climbing that pretty quickly, I joined Dave Mason on a small roof climb called Magnum 7C+. This is a great addition to the small roof and it climbs brilliantly. I was very happy to be successful on this and finish the day by sending a very crimpy problem called Monster 7C.
These 4 days were fantastic and has really got me psyched for climbing outside and trying hard again!