Moon Blog / Bouldering / Crash pads,Chalk and Boulders!
Crash pads,Chalk and Boulders!
Just after Christmas Holiday, I focused my “climbing time” on bouldering because the temperatures were too cold for sport climbing. I decided to visit some good bouldering spots with my brother and some friends.
The first place we visited was Donnas, in Aosta Valley where we and a lot of people are discovering and brushing lots of good new problems. I had two boulders in my mind Klettermachine 8a and Mucca Pazza 7c+. I started trying Klettermachine because I did the “Stand start” in fact I had to link just the first one move to complete the full boulder. After 30 minutes of work I climbed all the moves and I was super satisfated! Klettermachine is done, It’s Mucca pazza time!
I had some problems understanding the moves of Mucca pazza, because it’s really powerfull boulder composed of five moves on bad slopers and funny toe/hell hooks, COMPLETLY MY ANTI-STYLE! I needed two days of hard work to figure out all the moves and then I Crushed it and I was so PSYCHED!
The week after Mucca Pazza I tried, in my opinion one of the best line in Donnas opened by Alberto Gnerro, unfortunately it has not the name but grade is around 7b/b+ for me!
-The second Spot was Varazze in Liguria, where all the boulders were opened by Chistian Core In that day, I climbed three “Magic” boulders:
-Want you bad 7c+ composed of three physical and beautifull moves on slopers.
-Il tempo delle favole 7b(Flash)
-Toccami e cado 7b+ maybe the best boulder I did in Varazze.
The third Spot was Chironico, here I spent three days of bouldering with my brother and other friends. The conditions was quite good, 8 degrees the first day with a beautiful snow that covered the fields and boulders and warmer the second and the last day. The first day we decided to spent our time to try a great roof called Willemberg dach 8a in La Soucoupe sector. All the holds in this great line are so good but the moves are so long and powerful, I tried it for one our and half to understand the rigth beta with good but strange toe hooks! and finally after some efforts I crushed the boulder! in the same day I did also the stand start of the famouse Fred Nicole’s boulder called Serre moi fort 7b the second day was quite warm, I wanted to climb in the sector Nivo Alta because it was less hot then other sectors, to try The pocket problem 7c, I was really motivated and with some advices of my brother I FLASHED it! Yessaaa.
The last day I was tired and without skin, but I tried Serre moi fort 8a! I had my muscles destroyed and unfortunately I fall two times at the last move! NOOOOOO..
After this incredible line I decided to spend my last energy on Tarzan 7b+ in the Paese sector, I was lucky because I sent my “last” funny boulder of this short trip.