Moon Blog / Bouldering / Last Ascents before the DOOMSDAY!
Last Ascents before the DOOMSDAY!
In the last period since the competitions ended I have spent a lot time rock climbing, especially in the Sport Climbing.
At the beginning of October a friend of mine and I decided to take part in a rock competitions in Liguria precisely on the famous walls of Monte Cucco.
The teams were composed of two climbers, I was with my friend Federico Andreoli. The rules were simple we had to climb the highest number of routes in 5 hours.
We managed to get to the third place.
The routes that I climbed were:
-Sauta 7b O.S.
-The Edit 7b O.S.
-Block Trotter 7c+ (Flash) I was very proud of me because I did the best performance of the day.
Two days later I went to Valtournenche in a crag called Chesod.
At this spot there is a route that has been opened by Iker Pou and repeated by Adam Ondra graded 8b,I was very motivated to try it and after a quick warm-up I did the first attempt and I was really satisfied because I felt at the last hard move of the crux. I was really syked to get the second try and after a good rest I crushed it. WOW!
This was my best performance ever, I climbed also one more 7a and 7b on an amazing rock!
The Last week of October I went to Spain with three friends of mine, we were really motivated to climbing in Spanish pockets and tufas but the weather was not good, in fact 4 days out of 7 days it rained a lot. F**K! L
We climbed in overhanging wall in Margalef to avoid the wet holds but the humidity was high
In four days of climbing I sent:
Carn d’olla 7a O.S. Can Verdures
Nonamed 7a O.S. Ca la Marta
Tropicana 7b O.S. Racò de la Finestra
Morphos 7c+ (2nd go) Racò de la Finestra
Aeroplastica 7c+ (2nd go) Racò de la Finestra
Nonamed 8a Cova Soleiada
Esaù Directa 8a+ Cova Soleiada
At the end of the trip we were really unlucky but we had a good time!
When I came back from Spain quite unhappy, I decided to go climb in Aosta Valley in a new Crag bolted by Alberto Gnerro called Donnas but I went in the high part to try new routes.
I did Brontolo Pisolo 7c+ (3rd go), it is definitely a powerful route on fingers.
The day after 8/11/2012 was my Birthday, I came back to Donnas but in the low part of the Crag, I did to myself some little presents like:
Buon Compleanno 7b+ O.S.
Input 7c+/8a (2nd go) thanks to my brother for the beta.
In the middle of November the winter season started and I spent two days near the sea in Liguria because the temperatures were higher.
The first day we went to Castelbianco but a lot of routes were wet or humid! Uffffffff! L I tried one 7c+ Flash but in the Crux the Tufa was really wet, I fell there because I wasn’t able to get it without the wet hold. One hour later I tried a great 8a but it also had two wet holds. I was quite angry and disappointed, I decided to stop climbing to save my skin for the next day.
The day before my friends and I moved to a different sector called Terminal, this wall is composed of big tufas, crimps and pockets in fact in one single route you can climb on three different styles.
I started the warm up with one 6b and one amazing 6c+ and
Chec lap kok 7b (Flash).
After some time one of my friends advised me to try a hard 8a called Narita, it is 18 meters long and it is not so difficult to climb it On Sight. I was focused on it and I started to my O.S. attempt and after 25 minutes of struggle I get the CHAIN! MY FIRST 8A ON SIGHT. Vengaaaaaa!
I was psyched to perform again but I was tired and I failed O.S. one amazing 7c called Lester Person that I crushed it on my second try.
After some months of Sport Climbing I decided to dedicate two days of bouldering in Ticino with my brother and some friends.
The first day we went to Brione to climb on the best rock I ever seen but I was not in shape because I had not enough power to complete my “Project” but I did some scary boulders like:
-Dave’s Jump 7a (Flash) really scary and not easy to climb because the last move is a strange dyno and you are quite high from the ground.
-Back Block 7b+ perfect river rock! It is also quite high but fortunately the second part is easy.
The second day I went to Chironico, my shape was better than in Brione, after a good warm-up, I did, very quickly, a super cool 7c called Brechstange, then we moved to a different sector called 101, we walk a lot to reach a new boulder problem for me, called Worthless Everything 7c+.
After few tries with the original beta, I “found” a new one, I adopted a strange Lolotte to go the Top, in fact in some attempts I Crushed the boulder!
Now I waiting the Christmas Holidays because the 28th of December my family and I, will go to Spain for about 10 days. I’m so syked to climb there, hopeful to get some beautiful routes.