Moon Blog / Bouldering / Old projects, new projects
Old projects, new projects
When I came back from The States I wasn’t happy to be home but my motivation for climbing was high and I was in some sort of a sending mood. This way I did one of my old projects Rože zla (Les Fleurs du Mal), 7C+. I was just wandering if the holds still felt so bad and before I realized how terribly small and painful those crimps are, I was on top of it. Such a cool moment to do something unexpectedly. It’s a ground up climb, so I stuck that crux move for the first time ever and then it was just a matter of staying calm to top it out.
For me, it’s harder to try really hard and fight when I climb on some local spots, because in the back of my mind is always the thought that I can come back to it whenever I want to, so there is no pressure or moment like ”it’s now or never”. Now, I try to set my mind to it and think that I want to do it now and not one day.
Staying home means limestone bouldering for me, which is not my favourite thing. There are of course some exceptions and some lines that are pretty awesome, but in general it comes to pulling on very small crimps. Luckily, Maltatal is not very far away and I went there a couple of times this fall. It’s one of my favourite places and I really feel good there. It’s where I first started bouldering more seriously. It’s where I did my first 7C and later my first 8A+. The rock is great and the harder you climb the better it gets. It’s definitely a place to have a project and I didn’t have one for a while. We stopped by the Alligator the other day, because Gasper wanted to try it, so I decided to try the left exit, Loskot’s classic problem Wrestling with an Alligator, 8B, just for fun. It went surprisingly well and I really want to try it some more. I just hope the winter won’t come too soon with all that snow.
It means a lot to me to have a big project that I want to do. It keeps me motivated during the week to train and just the feeling that I might do it one day is so exciting and I’m looking forward to come back to it as soon as possible.