Moon Blog / Bouldering / On cloud 9...................a.
On cloud 9...................a.
So May started pretty well, in a 3 day period I did an e7 ground up, red pointed 9a and won a bouldering comp.I was asked to go for pictures to be included in a new book on the history of climbing in the Peak district. They wanted pictures of Ninth Life at two tier, chee dale. Cool I thought, Im up for that. A proper classic tick.I onsighted the 7b that shares the same lower off, gave it a token scrub as it was all so dirty I was struggling to see what was a hold under all that filth. My mate had a quick tope rope and cleaned off more mud and grime.
The guide he had mentioned a skyhook placement that was pretty useful on the run out section, unfortunately my guide omitted this bit of info!! So Id left my skyhook at home cause when do you ever really need it!! We came up with an idea, two small wires taped together to form a crude slider type thing to go in the pocket instead. So off I went in the full sun because this according to the photographer Mike Hutton gave the best light on this particular route. Doh!!!
I bouldered up to the first bit of gear, a nest of bomber friends and wires. The next section gave the 6c crux and landed me at a jug and a choice… Clip the bolt way out left or not. I clipped it cause not to would be well daft. The next section is the bold bit, pretty easy really but just a bit fall off able. The taped together nuts gave some piece of mind and I danced up to the top piece of pro, a small wire that I had been given some beta how to place. The only thing was that my hand was in the placement and I was getting boxed. I started free styling on dirty holds and managed to find a position to slot in this crucial wire. Phew no longer a ground fall…
So really only a move from glory jugs I started getting a mighty pump. The sun glared in my eyes, my finger tips just seemed to grease up every hold I touched. This started to fell really unfair, having battled my way up here I could feel my flash attempt slipping from my grasp. Next thing I know is that I am testing the small wire and joy of joys it holds and I don’t take a massive whipper like Jerry did back in the day. I lower down, have a rest, let the shade take over the wall and pull the ropes and walk up it next go. The photos will be ace and I had a fab time.
Well the next day dawns and I feel good, really good. We head to malham, to finish off the deed. I had not really tried Rainshadow from the ground this year. This was my 5 th visit this year and I had been mainly sitting on a bolt jalf way up Raindogs and trying to go to the top from there. In all my redpoints on it last year I had only got throught the crux once before and fell off 6 or so moves from easy ground. Today I felt light and was up for going from the ground. In fact something really felt different today. I was no longer visualizing the crux. All I could think about were the final moves. Today something felt different I just wanted it over, no longer there to just go through the motions. I meant business. My first go was a bit of a warm up go and I fell high ion the crux.
The next go I was awesome, at the rest I felt rested and through the crux I flew. All I had was the upper wall to finish off, gritting my teeth and making a few grunting cow noises I set off into the steepness ahead. Knowing I had been up here before and fallen really made me concentrate. It was a flawless bit of climbing and so satisfying clipping that belay. Its not everyday you clip the chains on a 9a!!!
So when the next day came I was feeling even better, even more psyched. Its not everyday you wake up having done 9a the day before.
Today was a comp at The Climbing Barn in Bingley. It was a good fun comp that had good prize money. The qualifiers went well. Nao went into the finals in first and I went in in second.
I had seroius competition in the shape of Dave Jones, I knew I would have to pull pretty hard to pip him to first place. Thankfully there was a mantle problem that only I managed to get up which seemed to be the problem that made the difference. The Barn put on a really good show, they had a gear stall from Moon, a bar with real pints and a roast hog van.
Anyhow both myself and the wife took first place. Happy families!!
Here is the video from the day http://vimeo.com/66654390
So now Im just crusing, not trying to to get serious about anything now. Just enjoying the moment… Till the next route comes along.