Moon Blog / Bouldering / Riding out the storm
Riding out the storm
Its funny how a small thing can have such an impact, my thorn in the flesh this time was a strange finger tweek. I dont really know how it came about but one thing I have learnt is how to get rid of them quick sharp. Pete Robins showed me the elastic band trick, Stu Littlefair told me about icing, Vickers gave pain advice, Dave Sutcliffe taught me the benefits of the grip master and Boots sell Voltarol Emulgel.
Then main aim of last winter was to get through it uninjured, I had the goal of Rainshadow, I played it safe, playing hard but never pushing my training too far. This winter I have lacked focus as the weather has been so bad, its hard to imagine the limestone ever being dry again so I thrashed myself at the wall.
This rain has meant alot more indoor climbing than any winter I can remember.
One dry day was spent on curbar, I made a headpoint ascent of Knockin on heavens (E8 6C)with the finger in mild discomfort. Then I entered the Rockover comp which was brill but might have been a bit too much for it. I got to watch Naomi climb really well which was well worth it.
I ve been in full rehab mode, my finger upgrade is nearly finished, I did some grade 6 routes at the wall the other day and then I ve just been out on the grit. Went to Brandrith up in yorkshire, the mission was a classic font 7C+ of a mates, Dave Sutcliffe. Heaven in you hands is super cool, a big arete up on the moors. Just high enough to keep it interesting on the last move. It didnt hurt my finger which was the best thing about the day.
Naomi did her third E7 the other day so its been great to help her.
Anyway Im off to Albarracin in a few weeks, I ll take plenty of pictures, send all the 8B’s and when I get back there will hopefully be a drought…..