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Moon Blog / Bouldering / Rock,Rock and Rock again.

Rock,Rock and Rock again.

During these months I travelled a lot in France and Italy to meet new people but specially to climbing a lot on rock.

I spent one week in Ailefroide doing some bouldering, for me this was a new place. I dedicated my time to explore it, climbing new lines and to test new rock.

The conditions was not really good because the sun was hot but in the morning and the evening the possibilities to climb was better, because the temperatures were good.

I Climbed some beautiful Boulders like:

-La Fèe des tetines 7b+

-Cash 7b+ (Flash)

-Tchao Philippe 7b+ (Flash)

-Réconciliation 7b+ (2nd go) (it was graded 7c+ but in my opinion is easy).

-L’ènarque 7b (Hard)

 

During those days I met up with my friend  and fellow MOON Climber David Falt and we went to climb together in a SUPER crag called La Saume, Ceillac, the rock is really high quality but also the conditions of climbing, I did an incredible short and physical 8a route, called “Saume sweet home”, Thanks David for the Funny day ;)

One week later me, my family and some friends came back to France but we went to Ceuse to spend two weeks of sport climbing.

The conditions was really hot the temperatures arrived until 32 degrees in fact climbing was impossible. I tried for long time Slow Food 8b with no possibilities to send it for my bad shape and the super hot. I decided to try more easy routes, and I sent:

-Le couleur du vent 8a (Hard) Berlin

-L’ami caouette 8a(Hard) Demi Lune

-Le Petite prince du l’absurde 7c+ (2nd go) New route in Grand Face sector..Amazing white rock!

-Tout n’est pas si facile 7c+(Flash)

Luckily when I came back to Ceuse my shape began to be better in fact I decided to finish some project near my home in Aosta Valley.

Gressoney:

-Thunder road 7c(2nd go) Hard, certainly 7c+

-Balconi Fioriti 8a+ Hard, FA Gabriele Moroni, in my opinion 8a+/b

Champorcher:

-Le Portatrici di sale 7b+/c (2nd go)

-Enfant Prodige 7c (O.S.) it is graded 8a, too upgraded for me (chipped)

-Dominio di se 7c+ (2nd  go) it is graded 8a+, but absolutely not for me (chipped)

Tetto di Sarre:

Is The worst place I’ve ever climbed, but during rainy days is the only dry place, the 90% of the routes are chipped, in my opinion is not funny.

-Sarre 2000 8a+(2nd go) soft, 100% manufactured

Cubo:

-Ira 8b Soft also this routes is chipped but at least the moves are quite good.

After two weeks of climbing near my home, I took the car to go to sea, exactly in Liguria to spend a few days on the beach and climb a lot.

Me, my brother and one friend went to a nice crag called Cineplex, maybe the only cliff in that area where you can climb during the summer.

In two days of climbing I did:

-Yes Man 7c+ (2nd go) I failed the O.S try in the middle of the crux because I had not seen a big pocket for the left hand..Fuck!

-Metropolis 8a (Flash) My second 8a flash, super satisfaction..A MUERTE until the chain, thanx my brother for the explaining the moves.

-Old boy 8b (4th go) Soft

I Also tried another 8b called Pearl Harbour with no chances because I was so tired and the conditions were too hot.

After this short trip, we went to Magic Wood to do some bouldering, this place is really “magic” for me because everytime I am really happy to stay into this wood because it is special and amazing.

I had the pleasure to climb some good lines like:

1st day

-Grit de luxe 7b (Flash)

-Intermezzo 7c (2nd go) Soft

-Fight club 7c Soft

-Goldfish 7b+ (Flash)

-No name 7b (Flash)

-No name 7a (Flash) the line on the right of Grit de luxe, nice rock!

-Unendliche Geschichte II  8a Soft, it is known as The never ending story

2nd day

-Jack the chipper 7c (2nd go) Soft, maybe 7b/b

- The Gift 7c

-No name 7b (2nd go) it is graded 7c on the giudebook, too soft for this grade in my opinion

Now I’m training for the future competitions, exactly for the last Italy Boulder Cup and for the Two Italian Championships (Boulder and Lead)

Have a nice climbing to everybody!

 

All photos Marco Zanone. Last picture is from “Old Boy” 8b

 

Andrea climbs Le Feè des tetines 7b+

 

Andrea climbs Le portatrici di sale 7b+ Champorcher

 

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