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Moon Blog / Bouldering / the art of failure

the art of failure

2day “epics” are well common these days where everything seems to be (has to be) “second go, 5min, soft…”. One could think that after 3days with no success some people’s climbing life starts to fall apart… what if there are not enough points for the season… falling back in the ranking is NOT an option… crisis… disaster… OMG…  funny little combing world ;)

While it can be really fun to climb something pretty quickly – I really enjoy much more the process of testing my physical and mental limits – to dive deep into the microcosms of moving on rock. This year was season 10 up there at the highlander project. And it was the third season in a row where I managed to go down on the last move of my highlander project. Over the last two weeks I could feel how I got stronger and stronger and after going down on my way to that last hold I did really hope for one last chance. Just one more day!

After some snowy days weather turned good and warmer again – just in time before winter would hit hard with an arriving big low-pressure-system. But it was too cold for the highlander, so again a season ended on that %ç*ç last move – but no injury and the confidence that despite two serious injuries over the last 12months I still am able to pull down pretty hard!

But the day looked great for a last chance in the “hasi-project”. The road was already closed so off I was with my bike.

I was pretty sure I would send the project if I got this one more day! I just slipped off the last move the last time, I felt strong, strong enough to even compensate some problems (like wet holds…), I was rested enough, I had ok skin, I had eaten well, I had slept well, even Nico made his way up that day and gave me some support. Arriving at the boulder the snow was gone, the exit was wet but I was able to (kind of) dry it. So there I went for glory… ;)

Entering the crux of the “hasi-project” – needs some tension here (Can you see the water-drops left of me -melting snow from the topout)

I may climbed 6times into the crux, my heel slipped twice while setting up for the last move…. it just did NOT HAPPEN, no matter how hard and much I tried???  I could not believe what (not) happened, but somehow I just did not feel my body building up any tension, I felt like a marshmallow, a very strange feeling I never had before!!! I did not feel week, I just did not feel tension in between the holds….???

The grip was pretty bad, I had to dry up nearly all the holds… but that was not it… Nico sent “Marrakesh” (twice) and looked strong (well done!) – may it was this shitty day in Murgstal few days before…, where I managed to rip off my skin on Entlinge and somehow managed to tweak my pectoralis as well on Bourgonne (as it was raining an I was going crazy in the wetness…). May I should have just stayed at home to be “safe” from all the possible threats that would spoil my last chance up there… but as many excuses I can find it does not change the fact that: I just failed again… FTW???!!!

Thats how all the attempts ended – in the pads…

After going crazy with one attempt after another Nico and I were standing in front of the boulder and after some discussion decided it would be anyway more logic to start 3moves lower/to the right (as I started pretty stretched out and tweaked…). This will ad another three-move-compression-7C/8A to an 8B+… it will make you already tired for the following compression-moves and will put quite some spice on top of the full line – GREAT perspectives – these moves are just so freaking powerful and delicate and good – I am kind of glad I did not make it to the top from the higher start, so I can climb on it next year again.. ;)

SO I have another great project for which I just can’t wait to go back – the moves are just soooooooooooooo great – I MUST climb that line… :) just a pity I now have to wait 6months to climb on that holds. So I will train my ass off to get that little bit stronger. That will hopefully be enough to send that beauty next summer – and did I already mention it? There is a possible 8B/+ intro as well…  - but that will be something for the next generation… not for an old fat hasi like me… ;)

Winter at Sustenpass… The snow I could dig away… But it’s useless (for me) to fight against the cold.

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