Moon Blog / Lead Climbing / And you can use a rope when you climb...
And you can use a rope when you climb...
After nearly five years of no rope climbing (with a few exceptions) i’ve started again right before my Rocklands trip. Why now? Especially a few weeks before a bouldering trip? The answer is quite simple! I’ve got no idea what else to do and the amount of new hard routes is huge! After two days of struggeling with everything like pumped forarms and the fear of being half a meter above the bolts things worked better and better. I felt that my endurance came back and decided to try “Father And Son“, a 8c Route at the Trockauer Wand. The climb is something like 35 moves long, steep and for this area quite pumpy. Unfortunatelly the rock quality is not that good and it tends to soak most of the time.
The route could be seperated in three parts. The +irst one is a 7c+ section with big moves on pinches and good holds which leads to a good rest. This is where you prepare for the hardest moves maybe a font 7c+. It’s a traverse on tiny crimps with a reachy finish to the next rest. The rest is not that good and it offers only to chalk both hands quickly. From this point the holds are better but slopier and the route is getting steeper. It’s all about being fast and efficient ! After three days of trying i found my solution for the upper crux and sended the route next go.
“Father And Son“ is an outstanding route in this area! It’s a pity that we haven’t more like this. Ok, we have another one. “Crinker“ is also a superb 8c. Maybe it’s slightly eliminated but the best lines are created by our minds. The route follows a 30 meter long overhanging wall. After a few easier meters and a good rest it becomes overhanging and crimpy. This is the crux section. You have to do a shaky dyno into a shallow side slot. Once you hit it, start all your engines, do a hard and long crossing move to a tiny two finger pocket, move your feed and pull as hard on the pocket as you can. Stay calm and climb the excellent prow to the top of one of the most satisfying climbs in the Jura. Wow, what a route! Take the effort and stay in line. you will get the best climb you can imagine in this grade in the Frankenjura.
That was it! The rope season was over and my plane started to the Rocklands… Bouldering for the rest of 2012.
Next post is coming. Cheers