Moon Blog / Lead Climbing / My first 8c!
My first 8c!
I have just returned from a great trip to Spain. I spent a week in Margalef and then went over to Siurana for a couple of days to end the trip off. I had already been to both of the crags some years ago so had some specific routes I wanted to try. I wanted to crack a new grade category and was successful in doing so with a send of L’espiadimonis 8c/+. Another route that stood out amongst the others was a route called Doble Lluna, originally graded 8b/+ but I was informed afterwards that a hold had broken off, bumping it up to top end 8b+ possibly 8c? We had 10 days of amazing weather, sometimes it was a little too hot but this meant climbing in the mornings and evenings. After spending 6 days in Margalef on pockets, my skin was thinning and I needed to pinch and crimp a few holds for a change. Hence my move to Siurana.
Ed on Migranya Profunda 8b+, Siurana
Anyway before I get into too much detail I had a fun trip and can’t wait to return next year. My ticklist in the 8 days included
L’escamarla 7c+ (os)
Peixa 7c+ (os)
Gigololo 8a+ (2nd go)
Cop de Cigala 8a+ (2nd go)
Migranya Profunda 8b+ (2nd go)
El Allento Del Dragon 8a (2nd go)
Aeroplastica Extension 8a (os)
Vertigen 8a (2nd go)
El fustigador 8a+
Deverse Cordes 8a+ (os)
El Mananeo 8b (2nd go)
Doble Lluna 8b+
After some quality escalade it was cool to finish with a glass of Cartoixa at the Scala Dei Priory. On my return to UK I had a great time watching the Queen’s jubilee down in London!
I am at home now for some time training and trying hard outside.
Cheers and Peace.