Moon Blog / Gallery / Ticking Over
Between the showers and on the not too humid days I ve had a good few days out. Llandulas cave down in wales has provided a lot of fun, Temple of gloom is a cool 8b that climbs through some very steep territory to finish up a long headwall to emerge at the belay in the sunshine. This upper section can also be climbed at 6c if you come in from the left. Local Chris Doyle also put up a parallel line through the roof at 8a+ and this is called the last crusade. To be honest i think this may be the better route, it has so many kinds of moves that its a real test of technique.
On days we weren’t felling up to our red points Naomi and myself did a couple of limestone trad routes in yorkshire that we have always fancied. First being Rebel at Gordale Scar. This multi pitch E5 is a stunner. The first pitch is a rumble up easy ground with a few loose holds to a belay in a cave. Here the second pitch kicks in straight away leaving this cave, it was a bit seepy which did not help but a bit a lateral thinking leads you to a smart groove above. The move heading out leftwards will be forever etched in my memory. The last bit of gear is a shoddy peg down in the groove which is all you can think about when you pull leftwards of a poor smear whilst blindly groping for good holds round the corner!! This leads to another cave belay. The third and final pitch is all about turning the lip of the belay cave and having that decision of push on or stop and get really hot and bothered trying to place gear off rubbish jams. We got hot and bothered in the full sun. What a route.
Next up was a more roadside route. Wiseblood at Kilnsey goes at E6 6b and has a very bouldery start. I went first and really enjoyed myself. For a trad route its pretty sequency and pumpy, around 7b/+ maybe. This route is hardly dry and it was great to catch it in condition. Nao flashed it on my gear, a sterling effort.
A trip to Rubicon also made for a good day, a new 6b+, 7a and 7c have been put up on the left. Worth a go if you want something new and not polished. I ve always wanted to do Caviar, this iconic 8a+ is tough from the word go. Bouldery moves lead into a great sequence utilising small crimps and a sneaky egyptian and a fun rumble to the top on holds that are part limestone, part cobwebs!! I got this second red point and have to say its amazing. Quality for the peak!!
Diamond session is upon us again, we had a trip down after warming up in Llandulas cave in the morning. I had an onsight burn on the 8a+, Skip of fools. Was way to greasy and fell off just after the bit in the photo. This route has no hard moves just lots of medium intensity ones and no good rests. I feel off the top on my first redpoint due to being to cocky and not using all the available holds. Next go i took things a bit more serious and got it ticked. Pete Robins has added an extended finish which takes you up into boat people via a tricky move. Well worth doing.
Whilst I had been doing this Naomi had done the 7c a few routes leftwards. Non Tidal Screamer took a lot of cleaning but Nao sussed it out quick and got it first red point. A few friends had a play and a could not resist having a go even though is was battered. I only just flashed this, the crux is really funky and involves a fair bit of commitment. It was nice to do a route which went all the way to the top. Good value for 7c… Mike Hutton drove down for an adventure, taking pics and of course and sneaky beer….
Next up was a trip to the lakes, a few of us found ourselves at Thrang Quarry in langdale. Slate sport climbing as you ve never seen it before, really steep, quite chipped and fun!! We were there as we had been bouldering nearby but our skin could not take anymore. The 7a+ took some thinking about and still feels about E5 but its a classic. The 7c on the left has great moves all on slate smears and hanging blocks. I really wanted to onsight the 8a/+ up the middle, Keep on keeping on. Halfway up and just below the crux I spent ages trying to make the clip but just could not reach it. I decided to just go for the move but partway through committing i bailed, thoughts of dodgy bolts entered my mind and I turn coward.. Anyway the move when i pulled back up was not too bad. I just extended the clip and the next go it went down fine. Pretty much crag ticked.
Its great doing tricky routes but at the start of the week Mike Hutton and myself had a mission to Stanage, we just went up and down loads of routes. It was so great to get loads of classic climbs done in a few hours. About 20 routes up to E1. We meet some cool older dude doing some shunting, great to see him still keen. Push on dude.
I hope to have more good news before we go to Spain, that is if it ever stops raining!!!
Skip of Fools F8a+
Keep on keeping on F8a+
Stanage day out