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Moon Blog / Lead Climbing / Too Hot in Ceuse in March...

Too Hot in Ceuse in March...

The Ceuse season has officially kicked off ! Sadly with a spring heat wave… Last year it was pretty cold and crisp conditions climbing in Ceuse during April. Yesterday on March 28th we hiked up a wee bit exited to be back. We warmed up on Zagreb a classic 6c on Berlin. I did two Lapp’s trying to get in to the Cuses feeling. The climbing in Ceuse is spectacular, but some times the crowds can be a bit too much. However we where only two other climbers on the entire crag so plenty of space… We moved on to try Makach Walou a 7c+ on Berlin. Sadly it was way tooooo hot to do any serious attempts so I had a nap in the sun. We finished the day with La Javanaise 7a on Demi Lune. Jesus that route is quite stiff and scary or I had a bad day?

 

Prepping on Berlin in Ceuse and yes this is in March…

 

For me it always take a few days to get used to the style and the rock before I climb well in Ceuse so I hope the teamps cool down and shade arrives a bit earlier in the afternoon so I can start working on a project . I noticed that some one has bolted a few really nice looking new lines. I especially noticed a fun looking new route just right of Tout nest pas facile a 7c+ I sent in June last year.

Well I almost forgot… NOT… I sent Coloscopie 7c+ (8a in topo) in St Leger. I think the route might be a bit soft to deserve the grade its been given if you climb it like I did. I went low and left in the crux skipping a clip (that I think makes the route a bit contrived). I think its an entire different ball game going straight up in the crux and a full on 8a. I have no Idea what is right or wrong in terms of beta, I just did the route in the only way possible for me.  I also sent Arque Pied Tendre 7b+ on 3rd in St Leger. This route must be one of the best routes I have ever climbed, but stiff for the grade I think. Its a 42 meter monster route very sustained and varied climbing a must if you pass by St Leger.

 

Picture taken in St Leger in March

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