Moon Blog / Lead Climbing / Welsh Sport
Highlights from a trips to Wales recently include
The Hole truth, French 8b. Managed the second ascent of this short burly route. More like a font 7C+ bloc. The setting is great by a lovely river frequented by al sorts of birds including dippers. The climbing leaves you battered, foot locks and full body inversion to turn the lip. Make sure you have nothing hard planned the next day!!
Madness Reigns, French 8a. A very tough route with a complicated crux sequence, well at least the way I did it. This really needs more attention, its got it all!
Meatsville Arizona, French 7c. This is such a bouldery route up and into the hanging groove. Awesome cutloose moves and campusing is the name of the game here. Hard!
Check out the little birds nest in the groove, please don’t scare the chicks but just say hi on your way past. They seem well happy up there in that hole. What a place to live!!
Strawberries man, French 7c. Naomi was working this one so provided awesome beta for me to flash it. A classic power endurance fest. This route is well popular for a good reason..
Three degrees of levitation, French 7C. Wow, this is such a different sort of sport route. Quite steady when you know how. I managed to blow the flash freestyling some sort of method for a shorty but in the end I had a proper Bo way to do it. I wont tell but just try kneebarring the pocket. Sorry for blowing you onsight….
Thanks goes to Chris Doyle for all the hard work cleaning and bolting these routes..