X

Moon Climbing

You have no items in your shopping cart.

Subtotal: £0.00

Climbing / School / Fingerboard Training Plan

Fingerboard Training Plan

Session structure

I recommend that each dead hang lasts between 5 and 8 seconds. You certainly wouldn’t want to hang on for any longer than 8 seconds. If you can, then the hold is too big. Sometimes, however, you will have a hold that you can only hang for 2-3 seconds. This is not a problem since you can measure your progress against this. For example if you can only hang a hold for 3 seconds, keep training on this hold, after a few sessions you should be able to hang for 4 seconds and after a few weeks possibly hang for up to 5 or 6 seconds. Seeing this kind of progress in your training will keep you motivated which is the key to success.

I have given a rough idea of resting times, sets and reps. I recommend that you alter rest times etc to suit your own personal needs. The idea is that you rest just enough to recover for the next rep/set, but not too long so as to waste the efficiency of the workout. If you need to vary the resting times it’s no problem. It will also be necessary to increase/ decrease the resistance to suit your own needs; this can be done by using either a pulley system or bungee cord. I will recommend in brackets, which to use for each exercise, the numbers will correspond to the moon fingerboard here.

Obviously, this is an extensive workout and will take a good hour and a half including warm up time. If you are on borrowed time, then it’s possible to complete a shorter session using this as a guideline and still benefit.

Training session

MOON Fingerboard Workout

Assuming you are fully warmed up, take a few minutes rest before starting the main session.

1. Double armed dead hang on front three fingers open handed. (hold 5)

Hang for 6 seconds, repeat three hangs resting 2 minutes between each.

2. Double armed dead hang on middle two fingers open handed. (hold 5)

Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 2 times resting 1.5 minutes between each.

3. Hang open handed on three fingers on one arm, decrease resistance as required until hang can be completed. (hold 2 or 5)

Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 sets for each arm, resting one minute between hangs on alternative arms.

Rest 5 minutes.

4. Double armed hang on full crimp position, on a first joint edge. (hold 1 or 5)

Hang for 6 seconds, repeat three hangs resting 1.5 minutes between each.

5. Double armed hang on full crimp, this time slightly smaller than the last set, i.e., _ of the the finger tip. (hold 3 or 4)

Hang for 6 seconds, repeat three hangs resting 1.5 minutes between each.

6. Single arm hang on 1st joint edge, decrease resistance if required until hang can be completed. ( hold 1, 5, or 4 depending on level)

Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 sets for each arm, resting one minute between hangs on alternative arms.

Rest 5-8 minutes (and prepare for some arm and body work!)

A. Single arm lock off at 90 degrees see pics. If required use the assistance of a bungee cord or pulley system. Try to stay as open as possible rather than twisting your body in to lock off. (hold 1 or 5)

Lock off for between 8 and 10 seconds. 3 reps for each arm, resting 2 minutes between each rep.

B. One armed pull ups, again assistance may be required using a bungee cord or a pulley system.(see video here). (hold 1)

Keeping your body as open as possible Try to complete 2 one armed pull ups for each set and complete 2 sets for each arm.

C. Leg lifts/ Front levers. Depending on your ability either do front levers or leg lifts. (hold 1)

If doing front levers, complete three sets of front levers holding each set for 5 to 8 seconds. If doing leg lifts complete three sets of leg lifts. For each set lift legs up to chest level 6 times.

Warm Down (and give yourself another pat on the back!)