Moon Blog / Lead Climbing / 1 to 100
1 to 100
Few weeks ago I reached number of 99 FA´s around my local sports climbing areas. My friend told me that number 100 should be some special line and I surely liked that idea.
I definitely don`t have problems with finding great projects, more likely I have problems with climbing them. For example here is the list of special four which I have been working on these days. They are all top quality, beautifull and entirely natural lines. Also they are more or less close to my max limit and probably this is why I can hardly imagine ever to climb all of them.
On the other hand limits are relative and life would be boring without the big ideas so…here is the list:
1) INTO THE WILD / Omiš
It starts with a 6b warm up pitch and than right away transforms into 50 degrees overhanging monster for the next 15m. After bolting it I couldnt even locate the holds and imagine moves between them. Now, I am on the next level which means that I can clearly recognize what should be done and I am able to hang on the holds in the hardest section. Not much but definitely progression. Hope I will do some moves soon…
2) PRVOMAJSKI ZAJEB / Markezina Greda
My old buddy! Proud and supercomplex line which goes more and more tehnical as you get more and more pumped. It is hardest in the first 20m where after numerous cruxes and aprox. 50 moves , you finally reach good rest and have chance to calm down before the finish 7b headwall.Unfortunately I fell few times on the last hard move, just before the jug, but I am still motivated as like we met yesterday.
3) CLINT EASTWOOD / Markezina Greda
The best boulder project I ever had – though it is a route. All difficulty is concentrated in the first 5 bolts where you have 13 incredible, hard and atractive moves in a row. Since recently, due to some training gains, body adaption to moves and clever beta solutions, I have all the moves in the bag but to link them I will have to become a bit stronger than now. You cant fool around with Clint Eastwood!
4) VUKOWAR / Omiš
Tipicall Spanish a muerte mega endurance project which diagonally drive trough the whole sector. It is 40m long and offers very sustained and top quality tufa climbing which would impress even the masters like Dani Andrada. Before setting off to link the whole thing I willl definitely have to do some mental training because even thinking that I might enter pumped into the last hard section on the very top, already makes me nervous.
What to say more? Train hard, skip the injury & climb harder….