Moon Blog / Training / Repetitive Training and the Olympics
Repetitive Training and the Olympics
A month since touching back down in the UK and I am pleased to say it has been productive! Colorado was a complete write off for me with temperatures soaring way above averages for that time of year and my complete lack of strength and fitness left me with an empty feeling in the pit of my stomach. I had felt good climbing wise before leaving for the States, I knew I wasn’t the strongest I had ever been due to niggling finger injuries leaving me unable to train my crimp strength but I felt good on plastic….note to self this doesn’t reflect on how you will perform on rock in 40 degree heat!
Anyway negative rant over, I came home and decided to train; my fingers seemed to be feeling good enough to entertain this idea and the English weather played it’s part by providing torrential rain or hot and humid conditions that made the thought of outdoor climbing a complete waste of time.
Five weeks into training and it is finally clicking, I think! I finally feel like I am returning to some form of strength and fitness. Most of my training has been pretty normal for me- finger boarding and climbing on the board. The only difference being my addition of a power endurance arm session on the campus board, I hope this will give me a building block for increasing my fitness and in turn giving me better day fitness for bouldering.
I now have a 5 day trip to Fontainebleau coming up for a friends birthday, this is my rest week! Circuiting, beer, wine, cheese and patisserie is the aim and my body is definitely looking forward to it. On our return I will have 4 weeks more of training time before heading back to the States for 3 months. This 4 weeks will be more climbing orientated with a bit of specific power and max. strength training thrown in!
I have to say I haven’t trained like this for 2 years but the last time I did this I climbed the best I ever had in Fontainebleau and Switzerland, so fingers crossed it will leave me feeling floaty light and strong!
I had forgotten quite how hard it is- my body has been in pain, my mind ravaged by the need for constant psyche for the pretty dull and monotonous training techniques but I know it will be worth it. So you ask how have I kept going?! The Olympics!!! I have been glued to the computer screen watching all the athletes come out and give it their very best, dealing with disappointments and successes they have all been phenomenal and it has truly inspired me.
I have been training for just over 4 weeks, these guys have been working hard, pushing their PB’s and vomiting in their hands for nearly 4 years. Some of them only took up their sport 4 years ago and have won gold already, others decided it would help them to get a scholarship for University and of course the historic first appearance of a disabled athlete competing against able bodied athletes. My hats go off to them, I just hope that climbers one day will be able to train that hard and compete on a level that high.
The Olympics is a dream for any athlete and it has touched me far more this year than any other; so a thank you to the IOC for giving it to London over Paris, thanks to the organisers but mostly to the athletes who have all worked so hard to get where they are.
Good luck to you all, especailly Team GB!
Role on 2016 in Rio and 2020 with the potential introduction of climbing into the Olympics. We all know it should be there!






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