Well, it can’t always be sending projects in perfect conditions I guess. But this is starting to get a bit silly. It has been the wettest winter in living memory in the Grampians and for those who are mostly restricted to the weekends, like myself, it has been more frustrating than I could have imagined. I feel like I’m back living in Sheffield, rather than Australia… I have managed to get a few things done and keep things ticking over, but since returning from Squamish, it has been 6 soaking weeks and the only days of good weather didn’t really go according to plan. I have recently returned to an area discovered a few years ago to seek some new lines and with new eyes have discovered some primo problems. I have spent a fair bit of time on a rope cleaning and practicing sequences. I managed the FA’s of a couple of great problems, including an awesome highball that I brushed up a couple of years ago. This went at about 7c with a heart stopping top out above just one spotter during a lovely afternoon out. I named this Abyss, after the space that I could see beneath me as I looked down to move my feet for the last move. I was pretty chuffed afterward…

But the business was another line that I cleaned about 4 weeks ago. It involves a hard crux down low, about 8a, and then a high top out with a double take off a sharp pebble. On the rope, the move felt OK, but I had never really climbed into position and this proved to be a lot more difficult than expected. Not to mention painful. I linked the bottom section a few times in a session, but then ran out of steam as I got to the pebble. I cleaned it again and decided to try it in isolation from a jump start next time out. So, feeling strong and well psyched I started up, a couple of spotters and five pads made me feel pretty secure, even though the landing is ringed by bean bag sized boulders waiting to snap an errant ankle. I got to the pebble no worries, wrapped it and reached up with my left hand to a steadying side pull, before laying one on for the top. All of a sudden I was back on the ground, none the worse for wear, or so I thought. I felt the familiar sensation of having whacked the back of my hand from overcrimping as I was spat off. I checked the back of my hand, no sweat, a tiny scratch. Got away with one really. I turned my hand over and audibly gasped. I had no tip left on my index finger on my right hand. I looked up in shock and saw my tip waving in the breeze, still stuck to the pebble… Shit, I was devastated.
Instead of letting this get me down, I decided that I would use this mid season break to get some specific training in, especially on my non preferred left side. So, I have been hitting the beastmaker and chin up bar every day for some lock offs and lever training and I have to tell you, it has shown some real benefits in less than two weeks. The finger is healing well and I’ll be back to my project this weekend, though probably with a new sequence, if possible.
But, it does go to show, that there is always something you can do, even if it’s not what you planned. Happy crushing…