Climbing / School / System Training Plan

System Training Plan

Session structure

- Hold grip for 4-5 secs.

- Each set should contain 4 static holds (2 reps either side)

- Each position/grip you should do a minimum of 4 sets

- Rest about 4 minutes between each set.

NB rest times/number of sets/reps given are a guide

I recommend that you alter rest times etc to suit your own personal needs.

The rule of thumb is to rest just enough to recover for the next rep/set but not so long as to waste the efficiency of the workout

Obviously, this is an extensive workout and will take a good 1 1/2 hours, including warm up time, to complete. If you are on borrowed time, downright lazy, unfit or a newcomer to training (delete as applicable) then it’s possible to complete a shorter session using this as a guideline and still benefit.

This session will give a base idea of a ‘systems session’. Nevertheless, systems training is very specific, if you are purely working on improving a weakness, then you will need to alter this plan to be more specific to your needs. This example is of a climber who wishes to work crimp strength and undercuts.

Please remember the exercises should be very intense and will require immense effort for each set, hence the long resting period between.

Training session (assuming you are fully warmed up, preferably with about 30 minutes good bouldering.)

Take a few minutes rest before starting the main session.

1. Presuming you have already set a systems ‘crimp problem’, complete one set, starting with your right hand, crimping each hold alternately for around 5 seconds, until you have crimped each hold twice. Concentrate on staying static on the hold and crimping very hard.

Once you have completed the first set, rest about 4 or 5 minutes until you feel relatively fresh again, and repeat until you have completed between 6 to 8 sets depending on your level of fitness.

Rest 5 and 10 minutes before starting the next exercise.

2. Again, presuming you have set a suitable Undercut ‘systems problem’, complete one set starting with your right hand, concentrating on keeping the position ‘locked off’ and keeping your body open (avoid twisting). Hold each position for around 5 seconds, before switching onto your opposite side. Each set should contain 2 ‘locks’ with each arm. Rest around 4-5 minutes between each set, and complete between 6 and 8 sets.

Warm Down (and send a can of beer or equivalent to Moon Climbing, marked for the attention of Rich Simpson!)

Some may want to add another position/ grip into this plan, however, it is worth noting that although this doesn’t sound like much, systems training is very tiring and for most people a session like this will be more than enough.