It seems hard to believe but it was 30 years ago back in 1984, aged just 18 that I made the first ascent of the UK’s 2nd 8a Statement of Youth. At the time it caused quite a stir in the climbing world not because of it’s difficulty but because I had used 7 bolts to climb it. To those not familiar with climbing in the 1980s this might seem pretty strange but back then sport climbing in the UK didn’t exist. Although it would take a few years this was all going to change and Statement played a big part in this change. During the past 30 years I have made several 1st ascents around the world but there are none that I am more proud of than Statement of Youth. Located at Lower Pen-Trwyn (LPT to most people) on the Great Orme in North Wales the route takes a line up the right-hand side of the steep left hand section of the cliff. With no particular crux section but very sustained at the grade it’s a right of passage for the sport climber aspiring to the magical 8th grade.
To celebrRead More...
Summer chaos started with getting back into full time work regime after one year long maternity leave. Well, this was really a hard landing back into reality, especially coz I am not crazy about my boring administration job. I do not want to sound like I am complaining but I must conclude that trying to be mother, housewife, full time employee and climber in the same 24hours is definitely crazy idea. Mostly it is simply impossible to catch all but even
This was one busy summer for me. I spent most of my days in our gym with the team preparing for the comps, route setting and then going from one world cup to another. The highlight was, of course, world championships in Munich. In my competition years there was also a world championships in 2005and If I look back now, it's so funny how things change. Bouldering was still pretty new to me at that time but I was very
Soon, summer is coming to an end. I've had a fantastic summer so far. Basically, it has all been about climbing. Outdoor climbing, climbing trips, indoor training, climbing comps, climbing books, climbing friends and some climbing chat.
I've learnt a lot during these few summer months. I've found one of my biggest weaknesses. It isn't anything about strength, technique, or even dynos (which I need to practice....). It my psyche. When I realized this, all the pieces fell into it's places: why I couldn't perform at my best at the most important competitions, why I fell of on the same route and same sequence time after time although I had done it before. Why I once did perform my best on a competition; because I didn't feel any pressure.
I'm very happy to find this out. I mean, now I can make it even better! I've started to read a book about mental training and mental training practice has entered my training schedule. Now I'm extrRead More...
There is lots of different playgrounds in climbing, and every playground requires not only different skills but also a different attitude towards it. First of all there are high walls, walls where you can´t just rappel in a single turn, walls to feed the little adventurer in you.
Further there is bouldering, the purest and most simple way to challenge yourself on a piece of rock. Then the ordinary crag climbing for the sporty spice in you. These walls can be the opposite of ordinary, when you discover them for the first time and every route is new and exciting to you.
Further you have the option of cleaniRead More...
Few weeks ago I reached number of 99 FA´s around my local sports climbing areas. My friend told me that number 100 should be some special line and I surely liked that idea.
I definitely don`t have problems with finding great projects, more likely I have problems with climbing them. For example here is the list of special four which I have been working on these days. They are all top quality, beautifull and entirely natural lines. Also they are more or less close to my max limit and probably this is why I can hardly imagine ever to climb all of them.
On the other hand limits are relative and life would be boring without the big ideas so...here is the list:
1) INTO THE WILD / Omiš
It starts with a 6b warm up pitch and than right away transforms into 50 degrees overhanging monster for the next 15m. After bolting it I couldnt even locate the holds and imagine moves between them. Now, I am on the next level which means that I can clearly recognize Read More...
And another one of the multiyear-projects down - it was one of the oldest undone projects left in Brione - happy times - could get used to that :)
First Ascent of "NIKE, 8B+", Brione, Switzerland. Pic by angelawagner.ch
There was a lot of rain
lately and many of the visiting "cracks" escaped Swizzy or went to Mellobloco. But then weather in Swizzy is pretty unpredictable. Out of the nowhere we got a short window of crazy foen-wind that dried everything in a few hours and pleased the climbers with some of the best conditions ever!!!
Well the headline says it all doesn't it?! If it does not for you, then you may like to read the following story of a climbing journey that began back in 2005 at Sustenpass, Switzerland.
A long journey has come to a happy (se)end.
Nine years ago some friends and I were working on the classic "Traumland, 8A" at Sustenpass and I was wondering if there would be a possibility to a sitdownstart to the boulder left of it which has the lovely name of "Pitbull". My friends dismissed the possibility. I had an idea but never really went on to try because it seemed just wayRead More...