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Blog

Showing 25 to 32 of 757 posts

the relevance of the triviality in climbing and its conflict

There is my routeprojekt around salzburg which I tried over and over again last year. Everytime I drove three hours one way, hiked up in the hope of dry holds, visualized the moves in certain appropriate and inappropriate situations, avoided party friends and too many beers at nights out and yet I failed. I failed over and over again. I knew all the moves, all the tricks, everything my body needed for the send, but in the end it didn't happen. The snow covered the surface of the beautyful landscape in a glittering white coat, which marked the end of the season. Time to let go. So why? Too weak? Of course, as a climber you always feel like an extra amount of newtonmeter would be fine. But I could do the crux moves, I could get there without being waisted ... Bad conditions? I repeatedly cut of my fingers on the cruxedge, but there were the good days, the sticky days, the no blood days, when everything was fine and the humidity was low and temps below zero, so... not that excuseRead More...

Moon Board Problems

and set of School Holds which will hopefully make life a bit easier all round. Rather than setting one problem at a time, this method puts the full set of holds all on the board at the same time in a random position. Then we have set problems on this grid from 6c up to about 8a which can all be climbed without moving a hold. For these problems you only need the grid ref on the sheets below. Not rocket science but just a more traditional way of setting problems. More sheets will follow in this manner. Let us know how you get on and send us some problems based on these setups if you spot any alternatives you consider worth a bash.

We have set up 2 new sets of problems 05 & 06 and for those of you with 2 sets of School Holds we have combined problems 05 & 06 into 1 uber set of problems!

November 2007:

>DOWNLOAD SCHOOL PROBLEMS SETUP 05.PDF (40KB);

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A GoodYear

There are times around the Christmas period when I start to feel a little down. Now this is not because I am a sad sack who has no family or mates to pass the festive season with. Its more to do with the weather. Whilst you Northeners are passing the days in blissful conditions, sub zero, dry hands, sticky rock type stuff, it starts to get really hot down here in the So Hem. It's not unusual to have a Christmas where the mercury peaks at around 40degrees. In other words, it's terrible conditions for climbing. Now, it's bad enough that its fucking hot already, but to make matters worse, this year, for the first time in 7 or 8 years, I have to work all summer. So, not only do I miss out on climbing, I can't go travelling, I can't hang on the beach all day and party all night, Well I guess I can party all night, but fronting up to work hung over in your own restaurant all summer is probably not a great look, not to mention a shitty way to pass the days. So, yeah, I'm feeling a little low,Read More...

Santoku

That’s WHY I climb - it can't get much better!!! Imagine a massive 12m long 80degrees overhanging granite-prow, heel/toe hooks, funky/tricky, and powerful compressions-moves all the way to the top -“Sanoku” - in Ticino - never ever seen something like that - never ever had climbed so many good moves in a row!!! It is pure perfection from the sitdownstart to the top. For a compression-fanatic like myself it’s just the Holy Grail ;) Thanx so much to Andi and Fabian for putting up that boulder! First day I had a nice session with Fabi and Andi. It was great to get all the tricky beta for once instead of spending hours/days by my own looking for a good solution. After getting a cold and some snow went down in Ticino I was back two weeks later. I still could not believe how good the climbing was. And as I like(d) it so much I just had to "climb" it three times in a row ;) [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="549"]Read More...

Deja Vu

After a quick 15 hour flight from Salt Lake City-Chicago-Dublin and finally Paris, the once far away magical forest of Fontainebleau was within my grasp. I love returning to an area 10 years later for its as if I had never been, everything fresh and new but still so familiar, a bit of deja vu was clearly present. We snatched up our spiffy French car and hit the road, after sussing out our living sitiuation with a good friend the time had come to attack the precious boulders. Unfortunately the ever present moisture and dew had devoured the boulders and never seemed to evaporate. Climbing in Fontainebleau is by far one of the most technical styles of rock in the world, its also extremely temperature dependent. The conditions were completely horrible, and even the thought of projecting anything above the warmup grade was out of the question. It was fun for a day or two but after 3 weeks of the continuous let down, my mind began to go a little cuckoo. Nearing the end of our France advenRead More...

Ups & Downs

Last few months turned into totally unexpected direction. I was just starting to feel light and strong when something snaped in my righ middle finger during one gym session. I already had problems with tendon sheets from time to time but this was something different and I immediately knew that I ruined few months of good training and will have to start once over again. So instead climbing outside on the premiere Dalmatian limestone in cool autumn conditions I ended up indoor on physiotherapy sessions at my friend Goran Vratarić. He treated my finger with microwaves, magnet, ultrasound, massage and we included elbow into the sessions since it hurted from time to time due to 2mm calcification I had on right medial condil. In the meanwhile my climbing club Marulianus finally signed rent contract for the place where we will build our new climbing gym. It is a huge project and once finished this will surely be the biggest climbing gym in Croatia. Beside great boulder area etc. , tRead More...

Evolution

Those of you who follow my Twitter/Facebook feed might be wondering how the Evolution story ended. Unfortunately there was no happy ending but the story isn’t over yet and all being well, a new chapter will begin again in the spring. I’ve not climbed now for about 3 weeks but up until that point all my climbing days over the previous 6 weeks were spent on Evolution. That’s about 2 days a week with no training days in between. It’s amazing how quickly you can rack up the days when fully committed and Evolution in terms of days invested is now probably number 2 on my all time list behind a certain route at Kilnsey. Hopefully the outcome will be different this time around! After getting bogged down on Evolution’s second crux for several days but still doing big links I finally got the breakthrough I had hoped for and during 1 session red-pointed all the way through to the last move 3 times. Unfortunately the last hold was seeping and I got spat off while setting up for theRead More...

There is no third thing

  1 BERNHARD FIEDLER CLIMBINGTRIPARTICLE     3 BERNHARD FIEDLER CLIMBINGTRIPARTICLE 4 BERNHARD FIEDLER CLIMBINGTRIPARTICLERead More...

Showing 25 to 32 of 757 posts