People in Sweden always talk about the weather. After the obligatory greeting phrase” hi, how are you” swedes always follow up with: ”What do you think about the weather?”, or ”The weather is wonderful/awful today!”.
I'm not going to complain about the weather, today I'm just going to be a normal swede. The summer hasn't arrived yet! Rain, rain, rain, rain, rain and some more rain; that's what this summer has been all about.
I feel sorry for the Swedish people. Summer is what we live for. We buy summer furniture and bikinis during the winter, we plan out summer trips years ahead and we're doing everything to make that summer tan longer lasting.
...and so are the hot temps. We've been trying to handle all that with climbing on some river bed spots where it gets a bit cooler. I only wish I had more time to go climbing but we're in the middle of the world cup season and for me it means many days spent in the gym or going from one comp to another. We're just back from Toronto and Vail where we had some time in between the two comps and we went to the beautiful RMNP. I remember the last time I was in Colorado it was raining all the time and this time it was just blue sky. Amazing.
Now we're back home and I did some routesetting and coaching for the team trainings and I went out bouldering a few times with Gasper and our french bulldog Mr. Truffe. I did a few FA's which is really cool but I must admit that usually the guys do all the hard work with brushing and searching and all that. Establishing new boulders or area's takes a lots of time and dedication but it is also the best feeling climbing something that's never been done bRead More...
I apologise for bombarding you with stuff about my recent ascent of Rainshadow but I promise this will be the last post. I still find it hard to believe that I managed to redpoint this route and that today I am
Yesterday I realized the dream I had of climbing Steve McClure’s classic 9a route Rainshadow. The dream began whilst walking in the Yorkshire Dales with my wife in 2012. Our route took us under the amazing limestone cove of Malham, it wasn’t a great day for climbing and most of the cove was wet but there was one lone climber working a route up the center of the cove. It turned out to be Jordan Buys and the route was Rainshadow. At the time I knew little or nothing about the route other than it was one of the hardest in the UK and graded 9a. Adam Ondra repeated it in 2011 in just 2 days and afterwards he said it was one of the best 9a routes he had climbed. Later in 2012 Jordan made the 3rd ascent.
Since that day I’ve learnt a lot more about this route and what makes it so special. It takes a stunning line up the centre of the cove on bullet hard limestone and requires that special combination of strength and endurance. It’s not enough to be strong or fit, you needRead More...