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Blog

Showing 25 to 32 of 752 posts

Ups & Downs

Last few months turned into totally unexpected direction. I was just starting to feel light and strong when something snaped in my righ middle finger during one gym session. I already had problems with tendon sheets from time to time but this was something different and I immediately knew that I ruined few months of good training and will have to start once over again. So instead climbing outside on the premiere Dalmatian limestone in cool autumn conditions I ended up indoor on physiotherapy sessions at my friend Goran Vratarić. He treated my finger with microwaves, magnet, ultrasound, massage and we included elbow into the sessions since it hurted from time to time due to 2mm calcification I had on right medial condil. In the meanwhile my climbing club Marulianus finally signed rent contract for the place where we will build our new climbing gym. It is a huge project and once finished this will surely be the biggest climbing gym in Croatia. Beside great boulder area etc. , tRead More...

Evolution

Those of you who follow my Twitter/Facebook feed might be wondering how the Evolution story ended. Unfortunately there was no happy ending but the story isn’t over yet and all being well, a new chapter will begin again in the spring. I’ve not climbed now for about 3 weeks but up until that point all my climbing days over the previous 6 weeks were spent on Evolution. That’s about 2 days a week with no training days in between. It’s amazing how quickly you can rack up the days when fully committed and Evolution in terms of days invested is now probably number 2 on my all time list behind a certain route at Kilnsey. Hopefully the outcome will be different this time around! After getting bogged down on Evolution’s second crux for several days but still doing big links I finally got the breakthrough I had hoped for and during 1 session red-pointed all the way through to the last move 3 times. Unfortunately the last hold was seeping and I got spat off while setting up for theRead More...

There is no third thing

  1 BERNHARD FIEDLER CLIMBINGTRIPARTICLE     3 BERNHARD FIEDLER CLIMBINGTRIPARTICLE 4 BERNHARD FIEDLER CLIMBINGTRIPARTICLERead More...

Achille is mine!

I have been going often to Monte Amiata since 2006 with my friends Lorenzo Frusteri and Beniamino (Bengio) Chiesi, who moved there a few years ago in order to increase the value of this area.

Among the many areas that I visited in years I missed the one located near the summit at nearly 1500 meters high. It is a very beautiful cliff. Bengio told me about it, its name is Achille, he felt for a long time but

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Consolation Prize

Even a master in the "Art of Failure" sometimes gets something done. Even it's "just" a lowdown start to an existing problem, it does complete a nice line and it is always good to come back and do something you have not been able to do before :) After I was snowed out from Sustenpass some nice "Fön-Wind" was forecasted for Chironico. I have not been climbing in Chironico for over a year so I was very excited to touch this nice gneiss again. After a full day of work I was back in Chironico at for the first time after my injury - the first time after over one year. It was a pity it was already dark (7pm) but friction felt great. I wanted to have a lock at "Insanity of Grandeur, 8C" on which I was very close as it still was a project. I warmed up on the "Electric-Ant" boulder. There is a nice little line on the right side of it which I did the FA two years ago. Back then on my FA of "A cat on a hot thin roof" I started sitting but quite stretched out. So I was wondering if it may woulRead More...

Back to swizzy

As always, flying is far more glamorous to those who don't do much of it. Now don't get me wrong, I'm not some high flying exec, who boards a plane for some far flung destination every second week, but when you live on the arse end of the world, flying and particularly, flying for a really long time is part and parcel of climbing at awesome venues around the world. So, it was with the usual trepidation that I boarded my longhaul flight to Milan, praying that there would be some good films and some extra space. I was awarded on my second leg with a full row to myself. Nothing to it really, two valium, an eye mask, ear plugs and whammo, I was in Milan…

Even though I had done thRead More...

Old projects, new projects

When I came back from The States I wasn't happy to be home but my motivation for climbing was high and I was in some sort of a sending mood. This way I did one of my old projects Rože zla (Les Fleurs du Mal), 7C+. I was just wandering if the holds still felt so bad and before I realized how terribly small and painful those crimps are, I was on top of it. Such a cool moment to do something unexpectedly. It's a ground up climb, so I stuck that crux move for the first time ever and then it was just a matter of staying calm to top it out.  

  For me, it's harder to try really hard and fight when I climb on some local spots, because in the back of my mind is aRead More...

the art of failure

2day “epics" are well common these days where everything seems to be (has to be) "second go, 5min, soft...". One could think that after 3days with no success some people's climbing life starts to fall apart... what if there are not enough points for the season... falling back in the ranking is NOT an option... crisis... disaster... OMG... funny little combing world ;) While it can be really fun to climb something pretty quickly - I really enjoy much more the process of testing my physical and mental limits - to dive deep into the microcosms of moving on rock. This year was season 10 up there at the highlander project. And it was the third season in a row where I managed to go down on the last move of my highlander project. Over the last two weeks I could feel how I got stronger and stronger and after going down on my way to that last hold I did really hope for one last chance. Just one more day! After some snowy days weather turned good and warmer again - just in time before wRead More...

Showing 25 to 32 of 752 posts