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Showing 17 to 24 of 809 posts

The Big Island by Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen

  • 08.01.2016- by Moon News
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[gallery link="file" ids="18062,18063,18064"] The first time I tried the Island was in January 2013. What a beast! I could desperately make (most of) the single moves, but not the transitions from one body position to the next. Nevertheless I was intrigued by this problem, the most brutal and perfect compression climbing I've ever encountered. At this time I had never climbed anything near the level of difficulty of the Island. It weights in as a hard 8b+, and the full line ‘the Big Island’ is 8c. I knew I had to get a lot stronger to make a chance at climbing this problem, but I also knew that it would be a huge motivation for the upcoming years. Over the next couple of years I gradually started to train more and with that I became a better and stronger climber. In that period I visited the Island every now and then, and almost every time I made some progression. I think it was in the winter of 2014/2015 that I had the feeling of making an actual chance of climbing this problemRead More...

Utah Bouldering Trip Katja Vidmar

  • 11.12.2015- by Moon News
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I'm sitting on a plane back home. The desert is thousands of miles away, but I still have sand in my hair, my face is sunburnt and my feet are still a bit cold. Desert life. I miss it already. We had a few wonderful weeks bouldering all around Utah, from Joe's Valley, Indian Creek and Big Bend, to Little Cottonwwod Canyon. image1 First days in Joe's just before Thanksgiving were nice and warm. Trying to climb everything and nothing at the same time. Just stopping by every boulder that looked good, no matter the grade or style. image2Read More...

David Mason Between the Trees - Albarracin Style

  • 07.12.2015- by Moon News
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Between the Trees - Albarracin Style from David Mason on Vimeo.

Another video of the red sandstone nestled between the pine trees of Albarracin. Problems featured - Cosmos 8A El Varano 7C Palplant 7B+ Pinturas Buldestres 8A Zarzamora 7C Zombie Nation 8A Brainstorm 7B Esperanza 8A+ Gigantic 7C+Read More...

Guernsey's LED Moonboard

  • 16.11.2015- by Moon News
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The LED moon boards are appearing all over the world, and we always love to hear about your builds, we got sent this email by our LED guru Chad, from Martin over in Guernsey. It looks like they had a brilliant time updating their moon board to the new LED system, it sure looked like thirsty work Hey Chad,   Thanks again for your help. I meant to get back to you sooner to let you know how it went, just in case you were interested! I actually finished a few weeks ago, and it's made the moon board so much more fun.   So, f**k me, that was a LOT of cutting, stripping, tinning and soldering of wires! Over a long weekend we had a lot of 3am/4am finishes and we consumed a mammoth amount of beer. I was lucky to rope in a couple of other guys or I might have gone insane! When I told one of them we could have bought the LED's from you (near the end), he nearly broke into tears, which frankly made it all worthwhile! Read More...

First Moon board build in Dubai, United Arab Emirates.

  • 14.11.2015- by Moon News
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By Ales Vyslouzil For most of the worlds climbers the picture of Dubai has been always linked to high-rise buildings, fancy cars, gold, money and of course a huge sand pit with camels but mainly NO CLIMBING. Let me correct your view a little bit. There is actually climbing scene. Not as huge as in Spain, France or any of the other word class destinations but climbers are keen and they develop small local crags. I am not even talking about Oman, where you can find climbs up to 8c and potentially even greater grades. I digress, if I start writing about Oman it would be a longer story and off the main topic – MOON BOARD in Dubai. The idea of building Moon Board was quite simple. Great tool for getting stronger as there is a deficit of training facilities in Dubai. I was the first one to have my own woodie in Dubai, but my wife and me have decided to move out of here and come back to Europe the question was. What are we going to do with the board? My friend, a local climbeRead More...


  • 09.11.2015- by Moon News
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By Ivan Lisica   Just got back from a huge bolting meeting at virgin canyon of river Čikola, one hour away from my hometown. The potential of this place is overwhelming and I question myself how it is possible that I have never heard about this place till recently. Jerry Moffat wrote in Revelations that in a certain period his rest days were reserved for soloing. My free days are often spent in the exploration of new areas and despite living like this for almost two decades it is still possible to find surprises like Čikola almost at my doorstep. This fact is unbelieveable but I enjoy it. Trying to imagine that all this endless rock is known, all crags bolted, all boulders brushed and me as just a guidebook user sounds impossible. Once you feel the excitement of facing the unknown terrain, creativity of setting the new lines and process of doing first ascents there is no way back. It becomes pure addiction and hardly anything can fRead More...

My Font week diary.

  • 28.10.2015- by Moon News
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1. Les Étoiles Filantes. By Joost Hess  

Day 1:   First day of the 15/16 Font season. Conditions are far from ideal, but we are in the forest and we can climb. With Les Étoiles Filantes (8a) I did my 96th 8th degree boulder, only 4 to go!!

2. Bruching The Island. By Joost Hess  


A weekend with old friends

  • 19.10.2015- by Moon News
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Having not been in the Grampians for months, due to work and a mind boggling trip to rocklands, I was frothing to get back to some of my projects. Weather looked primo and I was feeling refreshed, so we decided to head to an old crag that I hadn't visited in years. Having been ravaged by fire a couple of years ago, this area has seen some intense regrowth, which makes for an interesting walk in, 8 foot high weeds are not the best friend of a budding boulderer. But, we made it to the crag nonetheless. It was still as good as I remember. We ran around and repeated some of the primo lines, including the proud highway, which I did the FA of almost 10 years ago. It is still one of the best lines I have ever been on and I enjoyed every second of it, 3 times... Next up was an old project that I had almost forgotten about, there had been one move that had rebuffed me repeatedly. However, with fresh eyes and plenty of psych, I found a new sequence and managed to send this cool roof probleRead More...

Showing 17 to 24 of 809 posts