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Blog

Showing 17 to 24 of 752 posts

New Challenges

Lately, I've been super busy. Not climbing a lot for myself, but making some other goals and dreams come true. We've just opened a new gym for Slovenia Climbing Team. Our head coaches Simon and Roman have been dreaming about it for a long time and now it's here. I'm so happy and proud to be part of this project and I'm sure that it'll make our team even stronger! Beside the opening of the new gym, we organized a nice master competition event and I was one of the routesetters. The


final round was a great show and we'll do it for sure next year. I've been a member of Slovenia Climbing Team as a competitor for many years and now I'm in a different role as a coach. I find it really challenging and I'm so happy that my life is all about climbing and that my job is also something that I love! Next week we're off to Suisse with the youth team. It'll be cool to see them crushing outside and I'm happy to go along, it's been a while since my last visit to Ticino!  

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The Workout

The Workout Hello to everyone!!! The winter is gone and the sunny days of spring come more often, for outdoor climbing:) This winter in Kalymnos was one of the most wet winters with a lot of humidity in the last 10 years, the tufas and the stalactites are wet until now. So it was the opportunityto start indoor training to get a little bit stronger and fit. For me the indoor training is very important because it gives me extra strength and endurance that i need to finish my projects and my goals faster. Also it keeps my motivation high because i can see the improvement day by day and i know when i will go for my project i will be more ready and prepared for this. This video is made from the end of my strength cycle,so i was prepared for this workouts the last months. On this video you will see some hard exercises like:campusboard 1-5-9,deep lock off 1-8,hanging horizontial with my small fingers,one arm pull Read More...

The gift from the unusual winter

“I like to be in the nature, away from man made structures of plastic, that just don´t inspire me.” – wrote once Chris Sharma and perfectly described his but also mine attitude towards climbing indoors. My outdoor oriented character blessed with nice climate and so much rock around the place I live shaped my climbing style. I learned how to climb good on rock but remained relatively weak in physical aspect. For a climber like me winter season has always been reserved for climbing out as much as possible but this time it turned into complete opposite direction- building our new gym. So ironic at first, but in fact far from that. This new climbing gym is becoming the masterpiece of the generation. To imagine such a training spot in Split some years ago would be like science fiction. In town where southern easy going life style is stronger than anything, showing such an enthusiasm and team spirit, working hard and building something so ahead of all this region ever Read More...

the relevance of the triviality in climbing and its conflict

There is my routeprojekt around salzburg which I tried over and over again last year. Everytime I drove three hours one way, hiked up in the hope of dry holds, visualized the moves in certain appropriate and inappropriate situations, avoided party friends and too many beers at nights out and yet I failed. I failed over and over again. I knew all the moves, all the tricks, everything my body needed for the send, but in the end it didn't happen. The snow covered the surface of the beautyful landscape in a glittering white coat, which marked the end of the season. Time to let go. So why? Too weak? Of course, as a climber you always feel like an extra amount of newtonmeter would be fine. But I could do the crux moves, I could get there without being waisted ... Bad conditions? I repeatedly cut of my fingers on the cruxedge, but there were the good days, the sticky days, the no blood days, when everything was fine and the humidity was low and temps below zero, so... not that excuseRead More...

Moon Board Problems

and set of School Holds which will hopefully make life a bit easier all round. Rather than setting one problem at a time, this method puts the full set of holds all on the board at the same time in a random position. Then we have set problems on this grid from 6c up to about 8a which can all be climbed without moving a hold. For these problems you only need the grid ref on the sheets below. Not rocket science but just a more traditional way of setting problems. More sheets will follow in this manner. Let us know how you get on and send us some problems based on these setups if you spot any alternatives you consider worth a bash.

We have set up 2 new sets of problems 05 & 06 and for those of you with 2 sets of School Holds we have combined problems 05 & 06 into 1 uber set of problems!

November 2007:

>DOWNLOAD SCHOOL PROBLEMS SETUP 05.PDF (40KB);

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A GoodYear

There are times around the Christmas period when I start to feel a little down. Now this is not because I am a sad sack who has no family or mates to pass the festive season with. Its more to do with the weather. Whilst you Northeners are passing the days in blissful conditions, sub zero, dry hands, sticky rock type stuff, it starts to get really hot down here in the So Hem. It's not unusual to have a Christmas where the mercury peaks at around 40degrees. In other words, it's terrible conditions for climbing. Now, it's bad enough that its fucking hot already, but to make matters worse, this year, for the first time in 7 or 8 years, I have to work all summer. So, not only do I miss out on climbing, I can't go travelling, I can't hang on the beach all day and party all night, Well I guess I can party all night, but fronting up to work hung over in your own restaurant all summer is probably not a great look, not to mention a shitty way to pass the days. So, yeah, I'm feeling a little low,Read More...

Santoku

That’s WHY I climb - it can't get much better!!! Imagine a massive 12m long 80degrees overhanging granite-prow, heel/toe hooks, funky/tricky, and powerful compressions-moves all the way to the top -“Sanoku” - in Ticino - never ever seen something like that - never ever had climbed so many good moves in a row!!! It is pure perfection from the sitdownstart to the top. For a compression-fanatic like myself it’s just the Holy Grail ;) Thanx so much to Andi and Fabian for putting up that boulder! First day I had a nice session with Fabi and Andi. It was great to get all the tricky beta for once instead of spending hours/days by my own looking for a good solution. After getting a cold and some snow went down in Ticino I was back two weeks later. I still could not believe how good the climbing was. And as I like(d) it so much I just had to "climb" it three times in a row ;) [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="549"]Read More...

Deja Vu

After a quick 15 hour flight from Salt Lake City-Chicago-Dublin and finally Paris, the once far away magical forest of Fontainebleau was within my grasp. I love returning to an area 10 years later for its as if I had never been, everything fresh and new but still so familiar, a bit of deja vu was clearly present. We snatched up our spiffy French car and hit the road, after sussing out our living sitiuation with a good friend the time had come to attack the precious boulders. Unfortunately the ever present moisture and dew had devoured the boulders and never seemed to evaporate. Climbing in Fontainebleau is by far one of the most technical styles of rock in the world, its also extremely temperature dependent. The conditions were completely horrible, and even the thought of projecting anything above the warmup grade was out of the question. It was fun for a day or two but after 3 weeks of the continuous let down, my mind began to go a little cuckoo. Nearing the end of our France advenRead More...

Showing 17 to 24 of 752 posts