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Showing 17 to 24 of 749 posts

Moon Board Problems

and set of School Holds which will hopefully make life a bit easier all round. Rather than setting one problem at a time, this method puts the full set of holds all on the board at the same time in a random position. Then we have set problems on this grid from 6c up to about 8a which can all be climbed without moving a hold. For these problems you only need the grid ref on the sheets below. Not rocket science but just a more traditional way of setting problems. More sheets will follow in this manner. Let us know how you get on and send us some problems based on these setups if you spot any alternatives you consider worth a bash. We have set up 2 new sets of problems 05 & 06 and for those of you with 2 sets of School Holds we have combined problems 05 & 06 into 1 uber set of problems! November 2007: >DOWNLOAD SCHOOL PROBLEMS SETUP 05.PDF (40KB) Read More...

A GoodYear

There are times around the Christmas period when I start to feel a little down. Now this is not because I am a sad sack who has no family or mates to pass the festive season with. Its more to do with the weather. Whilst you Northeners are passing the days in blissful conditions, sub zero, dry hands, sticky rock type stuff, it starts to get really hot down here in the So Hem. It's not unusual to have a Christmas where the mercury peaks at around 40degrees. In other words, it's terrible conditions for climbing. Now, it's bad enough that its fucking hot already, but to make matters worse, this year, for the first time in 7 or 8 years, I have to work all summer. So, not only do I miss out on climbing, I can't go travelling, I can't hang on the beach all day and party all night, Well I guess I can party all night, but fronting up to work hung over in your own restaurant all summer is probably not a great look, not to mention a shitty way to pass the days. So, yeah, I'm feeling a little [...] Read More...

Santoku

That Read More...

Deja Vu

After a quick 15 hour flight from Salt Lake City-Chicago-Dublin and finally Paris, the once far away magical forest of Fontainebleau was within my grasp. I love returning to an area 10 years later for its as if I had never been, everything fresh and new but still so familiar, a bit of deja vu was clearly present. We snatched up our spiffy French car and hit the road, after sussing out our living sitiuation with a good friend the time had come to attack the precious boulders. Unfortunately the ever present moisture and dew had devoured the boulders and never seemed to evaporate. Climbing in Fontainebleau is by far one of the most technical styles of rock in the world, its also extremely temperature dependent. The conditions were completely horrible, and even the thought of projecting anything above the warmup grade was out of the question. It was fun for a day or two but after 3 weeks of the continuous let down, my mind began to go a little cuckoo. Nearing the end of our France [...] Read More...

Ups & Downs

Last few months turned into totally unexpected direction. I was just starting to feel light and strong Read More...

Evolution

Those of you who follow my Twitter/Facebook feed might be wondering how the Evolution story ended. Read More...

There is no third thing

1 BERNHARD FIEDLER CLIMBINGTRIPARTICLE 3 BERNHARD FIEDLER CLIMBINGTRIPARTICLE Read More...

Achille is mine!

I have been going often to Monte Amiata since 2006 with my friends Lorenzo Frusteri and Beniamino (Bengio) Chiesi, who moved there a few years ago in order to increase the value of this area.

Among the many areas that I visited in years I missed the one located near the summit at nearly 1500 meters high. It is a very beautiful cliff. Bengio told me about it, its name is Achille, he felt for a long time but could not figure it out.

I was awed, maybe because it is high and because grips are few and painful. I spent all day long climbing, keeping on looking at Achille but without trying. At the end of the day it went on the back burner of my mind.

In winter 2011 Michele Caminati released it and gave it the degree 8A+ fb. Two years later, in July 2013 I went back to the top with Bengio and Read More...

Showing 17 to 24 of 749 posts