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Showing 1 to 8 of 758 posts

What is The Moon Board?

Now that the School Room is back in business and we have a sexy new Moon Board to train on we thought it was time to make a short film explaining the concept and benefits of training on a Moon Board. We hope you find this film helpful and motivating. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mgl1hNgXr1oRead More...

Less is more

Last few months my climbing was mixture of everything. I was not focused on any particular project or strict training plan because I felt tired of the intense rhythm I held for months. This time I decided to follow my instinct and keep things as simple as possible - even if it meant climbing just once or twice per week.

This relaxed approach taught me about less is more philosophy which I have heard about but never really tried it. Of course, you cant expect to improve this way but surely you will have more energy and this is what I wanted. At first it was kind of surprising how your climbing can stay on rather high level despite few sessions per week less than usually. I climbed less but quality of the sessions raised. The other good thing which came with this energy boom was strong idea to change regular routines and spice things up a bit. So, beside running a lot I did some training sessions at home, got our crashpads out from the basement , visRead More...

Lightening up a MOON Board!

Guest blog by Chad Jensen - Alaska USA! Dear all its a pleasure for us to introduce Chad Jensen an keen climber a brilliant inventor from Alaska - USA. Chad has invented a brilliant system to show problems on the MOON Board. Below you will find Chad's guest blog and a link to the Video showing his super cool innovation. Thanks a bunch for sharing this with us Chad we are delighted! MOON Climbing   These last few years, I learned that I really need to add more bouldering into my training routine to be powerful enough to climb at the level I desire. The best bouldering system I’ve found that allows me to incorporate this training is the Moonboard. I love how many problems there are and the level of difficulty of the problems (although it was frustrating at first!). There is no cheating your training session on this board. The only problem I ran into is the taRead More...

Looking back at 2014

It's hard to summarize the last few months. I have been super busy. School is getting harder and my love to climbing is getting bigger (this doesn't go hand in hand...)

I guess I have to start this blog with one of the biggest happenings 2014: The junior world championships. First of all I came 3:rd, which really surprised me. The competition took place in New Caledonia, a Island next to Australia. I had never been that far away from home, and probably I will never be it again.

One week later I won the Nordic championships in bouldering. A month later, and the same weekend, the Swedish championships in lead and a fun competition at my local climbing gym called "gymfedjen" togheter with my awesome team (it was a battle between all the climbing gyms in stockholm). Two weeks after the Nordic championships in lead, and one week after that I won the jRead More...

Moon Board Challenge

Your last Moon Board challenge was this spicy 7b going on 7c problem. Did you meet the challenge? Are you ready for the next? It's going to be all change on the Moon Board in the next few days with 3 new compatible set ups created by our Croatian team to freshen up your training.Read More...

LAST MOVES AGAIN - AND A LITTLE SEND

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="715"] After waiting all day at Ticino for "Insanity" to dry without success; change of program: Walk up to Sustenpass, 2000m above sea level, 1st of Dezember; "Highlander-Project", 0:30AM, 0C, very windy, COLD, climbing into the last move again...[/caption] It looks like it just does not matter what i try and when i try... i can make my way up to the last move(s) of any of my lifetime projects, at -2C or at +20C... in the dry... in the wet... but just don't send... either it's too cold, i am too tired, too rested, too.... "something"... and then i suddenly start falling off the first move.... then every other move and then fighting up to the last one again... to go down on that as well... but i am working on the "something" - and i will get to that top(s)... sooner or latRead More...

My trip to US and all that sandstone

It was finally here - the time to pack my bags and fly to Vegas. A month of a simple life in a desert was waiting for us and so were all that blocs out there. We've been on a trip to US before. Somehow we end up coming back almost every year. This time we decided to see what Nevada and Utah have to offer. [caption id="attachment_17340" align="aligncenter" width="300"]IMG_1339 (1) Amazing Plumber's Crack[/caption] First stop: Red Rocks. That place truly blew me away. So many different colours and shapes of rock and styles of climbing. You can find anything and everything is so good. I enjoyed the whole experience. From walking to the boulders and just looking around, to super fun warm ups and finally, the trying hard on something thaRead More...

Statement of Youth anniversary film

It seems hard to believe but it was 30 years ago back in 1984, aged just 18 that I made the first ascent of the UK?s 2nd 8a Statement of Youth. At the time it caused quite a stir in the climbing world not because of it?s difficulty but because I had used 7 bolts to climb it. To those not familiar with climbing in the 1980s this might seem pretty strange but back then sport climbing in the UK didn?t exist. Although it would take a few years this was all going to change and Statement played a big part in this change. During the past 30 years I have made several 1st ascents around the world but there are none that I am more proud of than Statement of Youth. Located at Lower Pen-Trwyn (LPT to most people) on the Great Orme in North Wales the route takes a line up the right-hand side of the steep left hand section of the cliff. With no particular crux section but very sustained at the grade it?s a right of passage for the sport climber aspiring to the magical 8th grade. To celebrate its Read More...

Showing 1 to 8 of 758 posts