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Blog

Showing 17 to 24 of 757 posts

First Ascent of "NIKE, 8B+", Brione, Switzerland

And another one of the multiyear-projects down - it was one of the oldest undone projects left in Brione - happy times - could get used to that :) First Ascent of "NIKE, 8B+", Brione, Switzerland. Pic by angelawagner.ch There was a lot of rain


lately and many of the visiting "cracks" escaped Swizzy or went to Mellobloco. But then weather in Swizzy is pretty unpredictable. Out of the nowhere we got a short window of crazy foen-wind that dried everything in a few hours and pleased the climbers with some of the best conditions ever!!!

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First Ascent of "Gepresster Hase, 8C", Sustenpass, Switzerland

Well the headline says it all doesn't it?! If it does not for you, then you may like to read the following story of a climbing journey that began back in 2005 at Sustenpass, Switzerland.

 

A long journey has come to a happy (se)end.

 

Nine years ago some friends and I were working on the classic "Traumland, 8A" at Sustenpass and I was wondering if there would be a possibility to a sitdownstart to the boulder left of it which has the lovely name of "Pitbull". My friends dismissed the possibility. I had an idea but never really went on to try because it seemed just wayRead More...

One year after

Last weeks I have been enjoying ideal climbing combination - good form and nice weather. Since the last blog I have continued with slow and steady progression. In rainy periods I did lots of indoor climbing where I got a bit stronger, luckily without any injury.

The rest of the time I was out


on the rock as much as possible and on the mission to chase the lines from my ticklist, manily composed of numerous old debtors. To climb these lines that I already failed is usually pain in the ass. I bet it is allways much easyer to do the new „hard“ route than „easy“ old one which doesnt fit your style.

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Summer months

Soon, summer is coming to an end. I've had a fantastic summer so far. Basically, it has all been about climbing. Outdoor climbing, climbing trips, indoor training, climbing comps, climbing books, climbing friends and some climbing chat.

I've learnt a lot during these few summer months. I've found one of my biggest weaknesses. It isn't anything about strength, technique, or even dynos (which I need to practice....). It my psyche. When I realized this, all the pieces fell into it's places: why I couldn't perform at my best at the most important competitions, why I fell of on the same route and same sequence time after time although I had done it before. Why I once did perform my best on a competition; because I didn't feel any pressure.

I'm very happy to find this out. I mean, now I can make it even better! I've started to read a book about mental training and mental training practice has entered my training schedule. Now I'm extrRead More...

Spring in Spain

Sometimes it’s nice to escape from the cold weather here in Sweden. The darkness, all the snow and the lack of good outdoor climbing days. Therefore, me my dad and two good friends of ours went to Siurana for a week. Finally, I had the opportunity to do what all the indoor climbing training was meant for-


outdoor climbing!

What can I say about Siurana? Well, it was just fantastic, amazing and super cool, I'm already longing back! The start of the week was really nice with blue skies and warm weather, enough to burn four pale swedes. But unfortunately we also had some cold and windy days.

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New Challenges

Lately, I've been super busy. Not climbing a lot for myself, but making some other goals and dreams come true. We've just opened a new gym for Slovenia Climbing Team. Our head coaches Simon and Roman have been dreaming about it for a long time and now it's here. I'm so happy and proud to be part of this project and I'm sure that it'll make our team even stronger! Beside the opening of the new gym, we organized a nice master competition event and I was one of the routesetters. The


final round was a great show and we'll do it for sure next year. I've been a member of Slovenia Climbing Team as a competitor for many years and now I'm in a different role as a coach. I find it really challenging and I'm so happy that my life is all about climbing and that my job is also something that I love! Next week we're off to Suisse with the youth team. It'll be cool to see them crushing outside and I'm happy to go along, it's been a while since my last visit to Ticino!  

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The Workout

The Workout Hello to everyone!!! The winter is gone and the sunny days of spring come more often, for outdoor climbing:) This winter in Kalymnos was one of the most wet winters with a lot of humidity in the last 10 years, the tufas and the stalactites are wet until now. So it was the opportunityto start indoor training to get a little bit stronger and fit. For me the indoor training is very important because it gives me extra strength and endurance that i need to finish my projects and my goals faster. Also it keeps my motivation high because i can see the improvement day by day and i know when i will go for my project i will be more ready and prepared for this. This video is made from the end of my strength cycle,so i was prepared for this workouts the last months. On this video you will see some hard exercises like:campusboard 1-5-9,deep lock off 1-8,hanging horizontial with my small fingers,one arm pull Read More...

The gift from the unusual winter

“I like to be in the nature, away from man made structures of plastic, that just don´t inspire me.” – wrote once Chris Sharma and perfectly described his but also mine attitude towards climbing indoors. My outdoor oriented character blessed with nice climate and so much rock around the place I live shaped my climbing style. I learned how to climb good on rock but remained relatively weak in physical aspect. For a climber like me winter season has always been reserved for climbing out as much as possible but this time it turned into complete opposite direction- building our new gym. So ironic at first, but in fact far from that. This new climbing gym is becoming the masterpiece of the generation. To imagine such a training spot in Split some years ago would be like science fiction. In town where southern easy going life style is stronger than anything, showing such an enthusiasm and team spirit, working hard and building something so ahead of all this region ever Read More...

Showing 17 to 24 of 757 posts