Another year has gone by since our first appearance on the TV show American Ninja Warrior, my training has evolved ten fold since then compared to any previous years I've had in climbing, I guess when you have serious incentive like winning $500,000 its worth investing the time and pain of training. I have never been an advocate for training and thats what has been one of the biggest attractions for me to rock climb, and when I say rock climb I mean actually outside climbing rocks.
You can go out with friends, be in nature, having fun doing what you love without feeling the annoyances and pressure to train and get stronger. It just happens naturally and thats what I have always loved about climbing. Its taken me to great extremes and amazing places that I had only dreamed of in the past. But, when it comes to being number 1 and being above and beyond in skill and strength, I have recently found it mandatory to train. The skills I've developed in a small amount of time in ninja [...] Read More...
It seems hard to believe but it was 30 years ago back in 1984, aged just 18 that I made the first ascent of the UK’s 2nd 8a Statement of Youth. At the time it caused quite a stir in the climbing world not because of it’s difficulty but because I had used 7 bolts to climb it. To those not familiar with climbing in the 1980s this might seem pretty strange but back then sport climbing in the UK didn’t exist. Although it would take a few years this was all going to change and Statement played a big part in this change. During the past 30 years I have made several 1st ascents around the world but there are none that I am more proud of than Statement of Youth. Located at Lower Pen-Trwyn (LPT to most people) on the Great Orme in North Wales the route takes a line up the right-hand side of the steep left hand section of the cliff. With no particular crux section but very sustained at the grade it’s a right of passage for the sport climber aspiring to the magical 8th grade.
To celebrate [...] Read More...
Summer chaos started with getting back into full time work regime after one year long maternity leave. Well, this was really a hard landing back into reality, especially coz I am not crazy about my boring administration job. I do not want to sound like I am complaining but I must conclude that trying to be mother, housewife, full time employee and climber in the same 24hours is definitely crazy idea. Mostly it is simply impossible to catch all but even trying is kind of success.
Since I am new in this game, first of all, big respect to all our parents who were playin it for a long time - now I understand them better.
And for all those who are about to get into this game in the future, here is a short photo story as a message that even in the chaos you dont have to forget climbing. Just a bit of extra motivation and organization skills and you are already on the wall.
This was one busy summer for me. I spent most of my days in our gym with the team preparing for the comps, route setting and then going from one world cup to another. The highlight was, of course, world championships in Munich. In my competition years there was also a world championships in 2005and If I look back now, it's so funny how things change. Bouldering was still pretty new to me at that time but I was very ambitious and I was ready to work hard to achieve my goals as a competitor. Now I'm looking at the comps from a different perspective - as a coach and I'm very happy to have a chance to work with such a cool team. Although I missed some time for my climbing this summer, all the work and ups and downs of the season payed off with Jernej Kruder taking a silver medal in Munich. It was a big and well deserved medal for him and for our team!
Soon, summer is coming to an end. I've had a fantastic summer so far. Basically, it has all been about climbing. Outdoor climbing, climbing trips, indoor training, climbing comps, climbing books, climbing friends and some climbing chat.
I've learnt a lot during these few summer months. I've found one of my biggest weaknesses. It isn't anything about strength, technique, or even dynos (which I need to practice....). It my psyche. When I realized this, all the pieces fell into it's places: why I couldn't perform at my best at the most important competitions, why I fell of on the same route and same sequence time after time although I had done it before. Why I once did perform my best on a competition; because I didn't feel any pressure.
I'm very happy to find this out. I mean, now I can make it even better! I've started to read a book about mental training and mental training practice has entered my training schedule. Now I'm [...] Read More...
There is lots of different playgrounds in climbing, and every playground requires not only different skills but also a different attitude towards it. First of all there are high walls, walls where you can Read More...
And another one of the multiyear-projects down - it was one of the oldest undone projects left in Brione - happy times - could get used to that :)
First Ascent of "NIKE, 8B+", Brione, Switzerland. Pic by angelawagner.ch
There was a lot of rain
lately and many of the visiting "cracks" escaped Swizzy or went to Mellobloco. But then weather in Swizzy is pretty unpredictable. Out of the nowhere we got a short window of crazy foen-wind that dried everything in a few hours and pleased the climbers with some of the best conditions ever!!!