Moon Blog / Bouldering / First Ascent of "NIKE, 8B+", Brione, Switzerland
First Ascent of "NIKE, 8B+", Brione, Switzerland
And another one of the multiyear-projects down – it was one of the oldest undone projects left in Brione – happy times – could get used to that
There was a lot of rain lately and many of the visiting “cracks” escaped Swizzy or went to Mellobloco. But then weather in Swizzy is pretty unpredictable. Out of the nowhere we got a short window of crazy foen-wind that dried everything in a few hours and pleased the climbers with some of the best conditions ever!!!
I had a few days left from my holidays and together with my girlfriend we made the four-hour trip down to Brione where I managed to climb one of the oldest projects left undone in Brione. At the “Atlantis”-boulder you can find a little crack-roof, tried by many but without success, thought to be “impossible” – but well it was not It was a nice puzzle to be solved and together with a friend I was able unlock the sequence already back in 2008. One year later and after struggling a lot to link the burly moves I managed to put up the straight line following the crack: “Supertussi, 8B” (still unrepeated, hardest crack-boulder out there?) but fell off many times on the last hard moves on the line we originally wanted to climb. Thanks to Angela spotting my back and the perfect friction I managed to pull it together this time in a great night-session. The first ascent of “NIKE, 8B+” was in the bag. It’s a real Greek goddess: Beautiful to lock at, but tricky and brutal to fight with. Don’t mess with her.. ;)
An obvious low-start to this line is still waiting to be climbed. It involves a heinous one-finger-lock (to another heinous one-finger-lock (are there non-heinous-one-finger-locks?) in the crack and some footwork and makes the following moves way harder (at least for a non-crack-boulder-pussy like me). I was close on doing the move but I need to work on my pain tolerance and I may have to visit the “wide boyz” to get some proper finger-crack-training as well….