Moon Blog / Lead Climbing / Smells like Alpine-Spirit

Smells like Alpine-Spirit

This year I started my outdoor season in Gorge du Verdon. After one week of multi pitch climbing every boulder, and sport climb felt simply like a joke (not because I was too strong, but because of the height).  This summer I was injured in my finger so it was perfect to try some more “alpine” routes.

As I spent most of my “climbing-career”, bouldering and sport climbing its pretty exciting to be climb in an alpine areas like Rätikon.

After two days there, I found a “new” passion. Over the years I got stronger in climbing, but never seriously tried any alpine stuff. And believe me: it’s like starting climbing again (at least on the first days).

Just few days ago I had to lead my first route – from the bottom to the top. Hell, u can not believe how proud I was about myself not starting to cry and getting more and more used to climb mostly all parts “just” with my feet. It was amazing to see how small the holds are and how flat the steps it can be – and you’re still not falling…

I learned to trust more my feet – which is a huge, huge, huge plus for climbing in everyway!

Another factor comes with climbing in alpine rock: the protection. As the routes are minimalistic bolted, you need to trust your abilities. Putting your own protection in the rock where u need it, or to explain it in a better: way, where to rock allows you to protect – this is simply amazing. When you climb 10 meters with no bolt, you are so focused on every move and check out every hold you’re taking. You have to be fully conscious about every move you’re making. This is just crazy.

In the same way u have to be conscious about your body, you need to be conscious about the way you’re moving. If you make mistakes it’s not like you’re just giveaway an onsight. No! It can be very dangerous. As u maybe know: it’s better not to fall in alpine routes. I also want to say thanks to all bolters who are respecting that alpine climbing is not sport climbing.






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