After enough time sitting around relaxing in London, I felt it was time to hit the rocks again. On Thursday the 19th I made a long and at times, tricky drive up to North Wales. I arrived in the evening only to be welcomed by the rain, cheers.

Friday - Day 1
Having not climbed on the rock for a while, I decided I should ease back into it, on a rock I feel comfortable on. After hiking up a big hill, Danny and myself made it to the sheep pen boulders in Ogwen. A 35 degree granite wall sits on a grass field, surrounded by an old rock wall. The Aura seemed mystical here especially with the sunrays shining perfectly down. After a majestic warm-up, it was time to get back in the flow of things. First off was Jerry's Problem. A hard three move V10 put up by Jerry Moffat sometime ago. After a couple goes and regaining confidence on the rock, I completed the boulder. The feeling of topping out again, was brilliant and I was pleased to be back where I felt comfortable. I then turned my attention to a problem called Compact Culture, rated V13, that starts in the same place but busts up and right across the wall. It took me 20 frustrating minutes to figure it out, until I decided to bare down and execute. I felt V12 to be a more appropriate grade, regardless the problem turned out to be pretty cool.
The forecast was for rain and to no surprise, that was what I woke up to the next day.

Saturday - Day 2
The Dreaded Parisella's Cave. As much as I dislike this place, I always find myself coming back. The large manmade limestone cave is far from inspiring, yet the abundance of hard problems and my love of movement makes it appealing. I was motivated to try Danny's desperate testpiece, Louis Armstrong, which he graded V12. I figured the moves out pretty quickly and before I knew it, I was falling at the crux move over and over again, from the start. A hard swing to hold, and that I was not doing. Conditions had become shit and I accepted today was not the day. It always feels better to leave the cave than it does to arrive there.. Gives you something to look forward to I suppose.

Monday - Day 3
After a day's rest, I felt much less sore and it was obvious what was in store for the day. I was to finish off Louis. We warmed up in Llanberis and headed over to the Orme, where conditions were primo. Third go lucky and the swing was held. I maintained composure and finished the problem off to make the second ascent of Louis Armstrong. Although the problem could be rated hard V12, I feel V13 to be more fitting. The nature of Louis is explosive and unforgiving, and compared to its surrounding problems and the recent hard problems I have done, it certainly is worthy of the higher grade. Tonight I go to sleep ravaged, but content..

check the photos section for a fresh new pic.

Moon BLog

Saturday May 24th - A day to remember
Graduating High School was one of those monumental moments I looked forward to my whole life, yet could not imagine actually experiencing. To be done with high school is such a relief and a weight off my shoulders to say the least. I honestly can not believe I don't ever have to return. Now it is time to move onto bigger and better things and start to follow some real goals of mine.

I was registered to compete in the Bouldering World Cup in Vail, however after a slow recovery from my tonsillectomy, I wasn't feeling as strong as I had hoped. I slowly tried to get back into climbing but was frustrated. I tortured myself for a week as I attempted to decide whether to do the comp or bail and go back to London early. In the end, the competitor deep inside of me won over and the decision was made. Almost its own separate sport, competition climbing requires many different strengths and tactics than other forms of climbing. You need a perfect balance of power and technique and importantly, good power-endurance. There are many skills to perfect. The art of figuring the easiest way of climbing the boulder quickly and then executing first try. Knowing whether to keep trying the boulder if you don't flash, or to rest and save yourself for the next problems. If you do continue trying, do you switch beta or keep trying the same method? For me, the hardest thing and one of the most integral to doing well is maintaining composure. To move on to the next problem and forget about what previously may have happened. You can always redeem yourself so a calm mind is key. I think it is important to be aware of all this while competing. Anyways, with all this in mind, I had 10 days to train, so I put my head down and got to work.

Friday June 6th - Qualifiers
The day had arrived. I was to compete in my first World Cup bouldering event. Nervous but psyched at the same time, I came out of isolation with few expectations, except to climb as well as I felt I should. I flashed the first problem and got all the other bonus holds first or second go. The problems felt pretty hard but I did not know if it was just me or if they were difficult for everyone. The interesting thing with competitions like this is that you really have no idea how you have done relative to the other competitors, which obviously determines your result. I was soon informed that I had done well and eventually qualified for the semi-finals in fourth place. I was quite pleased, yet aware of the fact that the next round was the most important. So, twenty out of the original sixty male competitors continued to the semifinals. After my pasta fix and a hot tub, I went to sleep awaiting the next day of competition.

Saturday June 7th - Semi-finals
Extremely sore from the day prior, I had a long and painful warm up. I was to climb after Killian Fischuber, possibly the best competition climber currently, and before Chris Sharma, America's, if not the world's favorite climber. Definitely keeping it underdog. The sun was out and it was quite warm and hence greasy. I overly chalked my hands and over gripped the holds and flashed my way up problem one. I powered my way to the bonus holds of the next two problems, but the pump caught up with me and come problem four I felt like my forearms had just been shot up with concrete. I through my self at it to no success. Frustrated and annoyed that I hadn't made finals (or at least I thought), I threw my chalk bag in a fit and stormed off. I was returned my chalk bag from the head judge, fellow Englishman and good friend, Graeme Alderson, with a yellow card - and the news that I had qualified for finals in third place behind Killian and Gabri Moroni. I was bewildered but ecstatic. Fatigued and hungry I had a snack and attempted to refuel for the finals.

Two Hours Later!
Finals began and the extreme soreness set in. I felt strong but not on point like the previous rounds. I didnt have that vital knack that is a fundamental ingredient to success on these sort of problems. I made two unfortunate route reading errors and suffered the consequences. I ended up sinking from 3rd place to 6th. Under utmost pressure to flash the last problem, Killian executed and took first, Gabri held down 2nd place and Paul Robinson in third. Despite my three place crumble, I was very glad to have made finals, especially being the youngest competitor, and it my first World Cup. Most importantly, after the training and competition, I was now a better climber. I think there is something to be said for this. Regardless of your result, competitions benefit you as a climber on many levels , not only physically but mentally too. It is always good to leave the comfort zone every now and then competitions are a perfect example.

Pleased I chose to compete, I now sit on plane on my way back to London.

And like that, another year has passed and it is summer again. Mad how time could travel so slowly yet a year can go by so swiftly.
I now plan on spending some down time in London, then heading up to North Wales for a week or two and maybe popping up to Sheffield for a minute.
Come the start of July I will drive to France and plan to climb in the high altitude bouldering areas surrounding Verbier and the Alps, checking out Magic Wood for a little bit and seeing Amsterdam for the first time.
I will try and update as much as I can over the next two months.
Summer has arrived and you know what that means, time to get strong for the fall..
Ready for the next chapter,
Ty

PS. look out for some upcoming photos and check this out:
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=2609


Chris, Myself, Killian


Myself, Gabri, Killian

The ever active and very prolific Markus Bock has just climbed a possible new 9a in the German Frankenjura. The route, which is just left of the classic "Kaum Zeit zum Atmen" by Wolfgang Gullich in the Frankenjura, was first bolted by Klaus Buechele in the mid 80's.

In the middle of the 90's Markus' friend Werner Thon rebolted the route and along with Markus both made several attempts to climb it but without success. Markus describes the route in the following words:

"This is a 3 Star route in a classic area.Technical, small crimps,bad footholds and of course not chipped".

1st of May Markus succeded on another project named "Three Suns And One Star" 8c+ and with this ascent Markus felt strong and fit enough for an even harder route.

It took him another 5 days to finally climb the route on 13th of May 2008. This was the day before Markus left on a climbing trip to Sweden. "It was great feeling for me to do the route because I was really close two days before but I fell on the second last move.

The route is called "The Essential" and Markus suggests 11/9a for it.

It is worth remembering that a route as hard as this one, bolted and nearly impossible in the past, can become a success sometime in the future even without chipping holds.

One day later on the 14th May he arrived in Sweden and made the first repeat of a 10 year old route opened by Stefan Wulf called "Cacahuetes" 10/8b in Rosendal. Markus found another new sequence on the crux compared to the ones Stefan did. Markus still confirmed the grade of 8b and thinks that Stefans version was a bit harder when he first climbed the route.

Another day later he came close to flash "Kritallbandet" 10/8b in Svarttjärn which he climbed also afterwards.

Photos of The Essential in the photo section of our site.

A five day break off school, and once again it was time to find a destination of particular interest. After some pondering, I decided to make a rampage to Salt Lake City, an area where I had spent hardly an time climbing.
Temps in little cottonwood were looking fair enough, and my friend, fellow moon athlete and Utah native Isaac Caldiero was keen.
So on the evening of Thursday the 21st I jumped on a plane and made my way.

Friday - Day 1
Well, temps definately weren't perfect but I could manage. Isaac took me to a classic V9 called Fat grips, which I dispatched in a couple goes after punting it with the grease factor. After about an hour of slow warm up and getting used to rock again, I was ready to try Bully. I had wanted to do this powerful V11 testpiece since watching, Ben, Jerry and Malc on it, back in the climbXmedia days. Isaac gave me the full run down, and just a minute later, I was topping out after making the third flash ascent, proceeding Klem Loskot and Ethan Pringle. I felt in full control throughout the climb, and was quite pleased. Dream come true.

Before my arrival, Isaac had been coming close to his current project. A link up of Ching, an old Garth Miller fingery V11 on the right-side of the boulder, into Bully, via a connecting lip traverse. Almost instantly after I walked down off the top, he pulled on with redpoint mindset (I could see it in his perfect execution of each move). He quickly made his way through the first crux section, and was soon into Bully. Isaac grunted his way along and before any of us knew it, his hand was on the top hold, all he had to do was kick his leg over and top it out. Evidently the pump had set in as Isaac attempted to swing his leg up. Third try lucky and his heel finally made contact, he composed himself and topped it out, creating Bling, the canyon's new V13. Good effort.

We then walked over to Spinal Twist. A seldom climbed V13 established by Chris Sharma back in the day. Me and Isaac worked on it for a half an hour and figured out a good sequence. The powerful climb revolves around some awkwardly positioned pinches and miserable footholds. A couple unsuccessful goes and I decided to buckle down. I pulled on and punched through to the top. Satched it up. Well worth the delve.

Finished off the day by doing a brilliant two move sloper V10, called Duct Tape. Class

Saturday - Day 2
I t was slightly colder today but I was not sure what to try. I was interested in Eclipse, but a waterfall was running down from the melting snow, so the starting feet were wet. Steven Jeffery showed us some abandoned projects but it was still far too warm to get involved. Assuring me I'd be fine, Isaac and I headed down to Eclipse, to try and dry it off a bit. Using some creative tactics involving dry leaves, and mud damns, the stream weakened and the footholds were slightly dryer. The sun was out and I felt positive regardless of alternate factors, so I started trying. I sorted out the upper moves and gave the beginning section some welly. The second move was spitting me off but I had only been climbing for about ten minutes, so tides were expected to change. And they did. Isaac gave me his key beta which seemed to work for everything, "make the connection." I executed the first moves and went to the top, with true Ben style with the leg-swing. What a stunning problem! Chuffed.

With some daylight left, we decided to make the best of the temps and headed up the hill to try one of Steven's old problems, Dominatrix. It was graded V12/13 and tackled an arête with the right hand, and small sidepulls on the steep wall with the left, into a shouldery and burly top out. We had heard of Ben doing this problem in a couple of goes some years back, so thought it must not be too bad (just kidding). Isaac and I threw ourselves at it to no avail. Would there be a next time? Time would tell.

Sunday - Rest

Monday - Day 3
The long awaited day had arrived. 9 a.m swung around quickly and a crew of us made the 3 hour journey to James Litz's Warpath, in Idaho. We arrived at the boulder and it was very good, if not better than we had expected. To sum it up, the climb is comprised of perfect moves across a roof on lovely holds. Incredibly sustained and quite an impressive piece of rock. To cut a long day short, I made some promising links but the 25+ move problem spanked my power endurance. I left humbled by the experience and eager to return, more prepared.

Tuesday - Day 4
The final day and the warmest. We made a late start and after flailing on Bronson, a hard V9, I was not sure what was on the cards. We headed over to Maische roof, a long-ish V10 that climbs out a hole, to a technical and crimpy headwall. I flashed, without tearing my skin which was a bonus. Was there time for one last climb, or was it time to call it a day, or a trip for that matter? Well, I had nothing to lose, so we headed back up to Dominatrix, for a final session. As expected, it was greasy, my skin was sacked, I was tired and about ready to bail, but I wasn't gonna punt it like that. I spent some time struggling, until I heard those words. "Make the connection." I bucked up and executed like a rudeboy in the jungle. I saved the day, and left the canyon with a grin. Come on Yes.

So that was that. Another visit to another quality area. Superb.
Next? I will graduate Boulder High School, get my tonsils removed and train for the world cup in Vail on May 6th. A random selection of events, I know.
So now it's time to put my head down and pull my socks up, I know what I need to do, just need to do it.
Onwards and upwards.
Ready as always.
Ty

Check out momentumvm.com for some upcoming footage, and the photos section for a nice shot of eclipse.


Trying Warpath - courtesy of B3bouldering.com

Well it has been a while, 130 days to be exact. The Winter season has come and gone, and it seems Spring has finally arrived, despite the small mounds of snow that remain in my garden. With not much that I'm keen to try around Boulder during the snow season, I spent sometime in a slump of no-motivation, but after regaining that training mindset, I have finally made my way out. I recently went on two eight-day bouldering trips so let the sum-up begin. Here goes:

February-Arkansas
Two good friends, Dave Graham and Chad Greedy headed down to Arkansas to climb on the majestic undeveloped sandstone boulders. Brett Lowell and Cooper Roberts from Big Up Productions met them down there to film a Dose for the new Dosage Volume 5. Two weeks later, Jeff and I flew in and joined the team. Although there is tons of rock here, 95% of it is choss. However that remaining 5 is stunning, and if you have the patience to search for the next best thing, it can be found.
To cut straight to the point, Jeff made a joint first ascent with Dave of an amazing technical river boulder, that they graded V12 and is yet to be named (although I'm hoping my name, Mr. Fontastic will be used). And I made the second ascent of a perfect compression roof called the Dirty 40, that Dave established a month prior. This problem includes the nicest hold I have ever used on rock. Absolutely incredible. Towards the end of the trip, I made the first ascent of a perfect V12 out a 40 degree cave known as Fred's cave, which I named One Inch Pinch. Classic power moves, culminating to a final stab into a crack, off a made-to-hold pinch. Jimmy Stabbins.
I dont want to give too much away, but peep the up and coming Dosage and all shall be revealed. Shameless plug.

March-So Cal
Spring break had arrived and it was time to decide on a destination. So many options yet, I struggled to find psyche. But when southern California entered the equation, I saw potential. I knew of a selection of quality problems located in The Tramway and Black Mountain, and the weather was looking consistently good, so it was on.
Friday the 21st, at four in the morning, me and my two friends, Jon Cardwell and Harry Robertson set out for Los Angeles where we would meet up with my brother Jeff and Southern California local and friend, Garrett Gregor who would be our host and tour guide. The drive took 13 hours but was split by an interesting experience at the outlet mall of Las Vegas, where we witnessed many obese Americans eating and shopping. Tired and psyched we went to bed, eager to explore new areas.

Day 1
First day we went to the Tramway. We bought our tickets and rode the giant cable car up to the top of the mountain, where many granite boulders waited. First on the list was a three move straight forward crimp problem called Black Mamba and graded V12. The first move, a dynamic move off a tweeky pocket, took me a couple goes to figure out but after half an hour of effort, I stuck it, and proceeded to execute the final dead-point to the finishing slot, and topped out. Half an our later, Harry was also successful, and after getting very close, Jon vowed to come back. We then walked down the hill to the Steep Sharma Arête, a classic line that Chris does in Rampage, and tries the sit (which Dan Mills later claimed the first ascent to). The complete problem involves compression at the start, followed by a long move to an awkwardly faced gaston block, and finishes with a jump off a smalI edge to a finishing bucket. I flashed the V10 stand and turned my attention to the unrepeated sit, which is rated V12. After figuring out the moves in a couple minutes and one weak attempt, I finished the problem off next go with a skin-ripping swing on the sharp jug, for the second ascent. Jeff and Harry proceeded to made quick work of the stand. Spirits were high and we couldn't wait for some Black Mountain action.

Day 2
The day started out with a six mile uphill hike, in the blistering heat, which I can tell you right now, was not much fun. A couple hours later we arrived at the first main bouldering area of Black Mountain where many classics lay. After warming up, Me and Jon flashed a classic V10 arête called Cosmos, and Jeff did it shortly after. We were ready for the main focus, Darkhorse, a classic V11 established by Chris Savage back in the day. The boulder tackles a deadpoint from a crimp rail to a hard-to-hit slopey edge, with a bad foothold, and then a couple easier moves to the top. Harry started the group off with a second go ascent, I did it one go after, and Jon followed suit. Eager as beavers, we walked another mile up the hill to the Boulder Basin area, where many boulders sit in a flat campground. Garrett took us to a project of his, dubbed Ubiquitous. A small steep wall, to a slopey lip encounter and then mantle. We all climbed on it for a bit, figuring it out and soon after I made the first ascent joined with Garrett who did it one go later. A spicy new addition graded V11. Prime. It was dark but I was not satisfied. We had planned to see Bang On, Ben's classic problem, but it had gotten darker, earlier than expected. Luckily a campfire grill, rested underneath The Tulip. A hard, unrepeated and unrated bloc put up by Chris back in the day. We gathered as many pine needles and leaves as we could find in the dark, and sparked up a fire. The boulder was perfectly lit and after thirty minutes and much ravaged skin, I satched it up. Savage. Six miles later, we returned to the car and made our way home via some greasy pizza. The next day we rested. Thank god.

Day 4
Early 2006, Matt Birch made the first ascent of Somewhere in Time at the Tramway, which he graded V14. Daniel Woods then made the second ascent and suggested V13. The powerful climb undertakes a seem coming straight out a 15 foot, 45 degree dagger. A couple burly moves on undercuts leads to a large awkward stab to a positive crimp, and then a viscious jump to the slopey lip of the boulder, to a lurchy top out. This was today's goal but today we had no Garrett and no guidebook, not a good combo. We certainly wanted to keep the hiking to a minimum after the recent epic, but we were keen and so we pressed on. We warmed up and Jon finished up the Mamba, nice. After two hours of wandering in circles, search leader, Jeff, came through and we were stood under Somewhere in Time. The sun was setting and the chill had arrived. A close flash go, and it was on. Figured the moves out and fired it second go. Ten minutes later Jon executed. A great climb, although we felt V12 is more appropriate. Successful, we rode the tram down, to the sound of sqwuealing tourists. Classic.

Day 5
The time had come. Bang On, Ben's legendary testpiece from yonx back, was to be tried today. Footage can be seen of Chris trying this in the Rampage extras, when it was still a project. The stunning line, goes direct out a steep bulge on the side of a space-ship looking boulder. The first move is the crux, harder now too since a large section of the first hold broke. A huge move from a jug to a right hand gaston crimp, do a tweeky match, re adjust, right hand to a perfect incut edge, and then the finisher; a big jump to a perfect flat, smooth jug that rests an inch from the lip. Fifth day of perfect climbing weather, we could not wait. Miraculously, the gate was open this time, so we drove straight up to the campground area. What a difference this made. We were as fresh as the sushi we ate the previous night. After some light warming up Harry and I flashed a superb V10 called Buzzsaw, that Chris does in the video, before he tries Bang On. Four power moves up a gently overhanging wall, what a beaut. Ten minute hike and we found ourself at the main prize. Ready to bang it, we started trying and after about an hour of trying all sorts of different methods, we found our sequence. I pulled on, stuck the big first move for the first time and seized the moment, i bared down to the fullest and stuck the dyno with gusto. Satch. Amazing problem and I was quite glad to do it before truely rupturing my fingers. Harry fell on the last move twice and Jon came close but it would have to be another day for them. I felt I had earned the next day of rest. I slept well that night.

Day 7
Back to Black Mountain, today Jeff would try Darkhorse which he had come close to, and Harry and Jon would try and clean up Bang on. We drove up and inhaled the sunshine. Unsure of what to try, I decided to spot and give moral support for the day. Unfortunately darkhorse of the group, Jeff, came close but to no avail. We pressed on up the hill where Harry impressively put Bang On to rest, first try of the day. Frustrated and fed up, Jon hung up his boots and accepted defeat. We drove three hours to Las Vegas that night to Red Rocks, for a weekend of sandstone bouldering before returning home.

Day 8
Red Rocks. To cut a disapointment short, Me and Harry did a powerful little V10 called Progressive Guy. Me and Jon came very close but failed on the highball V12, Clockwork Orange. Sunday - Day 9 - the final day started off with rain but became perfect. Jon made the second ascent of Ethan Pringle's Wet Dream. An amazing steep V12 on perfect rock. Good Effort. Me and Garrett came close but punted out. We feasted, dropped Jeff off at the airport, and then the worst part; the drive back. Due to a savage snowstorm, 8.30 in the morning and thirteen hours later we rolled into Boulder. Weathered and tired, I continued onto school and learnt a lot about the inside of my eyelids. Rugged.

Whats next?
A five day trip at the end of the month to Utah. Lots of training, and hopefully I'll get some of my local projects done too. But most importantly, in 25 school days, I will graduate and hence be free. Its only a matter of time now.
I plan on spending June and July in Europe, between England and France. Then spend August in Colorado and Utah. Before leaving to Switzerland in September. Come on yes.
In less than a month, I will have been with Moon Climbing for exactly a year. Well, time flies when your climbing high.

Until next time.
Signing out.
Ty

Check out the photo section for more pics.


Falling off Clockwork Orange


The Tulip


Black Mamba

Isaac Caldiero recently returned from a bouldering trip to Turkey. Here is what he had to say:

Haaah Turkey.
Not the kind you eat! but the country, talk about amazing. Between the delicious cheap food, hookah bars, and extremely hospitable people I would recommend Turkey as a destination to any traveler seeking for somewhere new to experience. Not to mention the beautiful landscape, ancient history, oh yeah and rock climbing shibidaang!!!
I've just returned and am already going through withdrawals from not having my daily overdose of fresh olives, cheese and supabulous virgin granite blocs. Im talking enough to feed my habits for a lifetime. Our main agenda was to search out and develop a barely
known region of granite boulders in the small town of Heraklia. Joining forces with fellow bubs Jon Cardwell, Steven Jeffries, Dave Banks, and MC on the vid cam, along with amazing turkish climber Serkan Ercan and a few other good friends. Our group explored endless amounts of rock for three weeks straight developing every prize line we could get our dirty little hands on!
Everywhere you look are granite mounds with rolling fields of grass surrounded by the ancient fortified walls built by Alexander the Great in 300 B.C. Being in Heraklia is definitely all about the experience and the location! The climbing is no Hueco or Font, it speaks for itself when your there. Its got the potential to be an amazing climbing destination with problems ranging from any difficulty, to any style imaginable and a huge grip of highball potential if thats your cup of tea. Stay posted for pics and video clips soon.


The 'Mandala' project

I just wanted to let you know that we now have the new 2008 clothing line available which includes lots of new styles for both men and women. We hope you like what you see.

I would also like to apologize to everyone who is still waiting for fingerboards. If you have ordered one you should have had an email explaining the delay. We have been told we should receive a delivery by the end of February which should finally clear all back orders.

Okay, once again a BIG SORRY to all those waiting for their fingerboards (there are a lot of you). We have been promised a delivery this Wednesday (30th Jan) but we don't know how many. We will work through the back orders starting with the oldest and try our best to keep you informed if there is going to be an extra delay.

Some of you have asked when the new 2008 clothing line will be available. Hopefully this should be up on the website and in retailers around the country by the middle to end of Feb.

We are nearly sold out of all the 2007 stock but have a few final offer left but these wont be around for long so make the most of these.

We just wanted to let you all know that we are now sold out of the white and stone coloured fingerboards until after Xmas. Only a handful of green ones left. Also, we cannot guarentee delivery before Xmas for any orders placed after the 14th Dec.

We have just taken delivery of our new 2008 range of chalk bags. We have two classic style chalk bags aimed at the sport and trad climber and both styles of chalk bags incorporate our new unique system for closing and opening the chalk bag. This new system is both quicker and more effective. We have also uprated the bouldering chalk bag with ballistic nylon fabric and further improved the dry bag closure system and we have also added a extra large Deluxe bouldering chalk bucket fulled loaded with features.

We have also uploaded a whole load of new product photos for all our bags and pads. We hope you find these useful.