Moon Climbing

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Summer is gone

Summer as always went by quickly, I think that the human beings should be on holidays 350 days a year…

After finishing the maintenance works in the gym, on August 9 my girlfriend and I decided to leave for a 10 days tour between Val Daone and Zillertal.

First stop in Val Daone, an enchanting valley beneath the Adamello, well known for its ice falls. In recent years a large group of climbers from Trento and Brescia is enhancing it with granite blocks which have nothing to envy to the Ticino ones.

After one day running, I decided to try a block that I already spotted on Internet, a very beautiful top furrowed by very good crimps released by Gabriele Moroni.

I spent half a day searching for the best sequence for hands and feet, but after the first laps from the bottom I realized that I spent too much energy in the study of movements and I decided to come back more rested the day after.

Next morning I waked up painfully, because in the last few days I did not train and I touched no grip.

I tried to warm up very quietly on the blocks and put my engine at the right speed, in order to let my lactic acid pains disappear.

It was a good choice because after 45 minutes training on the blocks between 6B and 6C, my pains seem to fade and my body have fine sensations.

I put myself under the block, I cleaned the grips and made two useless laps during which my foot slipped on the last movements…I got angry a lot.

I nervously lighted up another cigarette…then I received a phone call by a colleague, I spent ten minutes on the phone thanks to which I probably forgot what happened shortly before.

I wore my shoes, I placed myself at the starting point and I started: I somehow pulled out the tension and anger and I climbed flowing as it happened a very few times in my life.

I reached the top and I laughed to myself: it also has been.

Photo by Massimo Gambineri

I spent the rest of the day doing a little or nothing.

Next morning I waked up worse than the day before, with more pains even in the lower back.

I decided to climb up a lower level and I tried to climb up more mid-level blocks in order to get ready as fitness as possible for Zillertal.

It was a good choice because after my stay in Val Daone, I left to Zillertal with a better fitness.

I always have heard of Zillertal, but I never had the opportunity to visit it in my 11 years climbing experience.

The first day I decided to visit Ginzling, where I wanted to try a particular block.

The block in question was Incubator, a wonderful 8A+/B block on super athletic movements on a 40 ° overhanging panel.

I quickly warmed up and I placed myself under Incubator, as a child in a play ground.

After half an hour spent in trying the movements that I already knew in part, thanks to the videos on YouTube, I decided to try a few laps from the start.

I always fell down on that damn dynamic on that crimp slightly enhanced, but this time I tried to contain my anger.

I was successful in the single but between the individual and concatenating the whole thing is very different.

I took a hard decision, because I didn’t want to come back there every day and I wished to climb as much as possible without looking at the degree.

I tried classic lines between 7A-7C among which the renowned rock edge of Hotel California in the sector of Sundergrund.

The day before last I decided to visit Zillergrund, area surrounded by an enchanting woodland. My attention was drawn to a not so high block crossed by a slanted crack with a small roof , starting point of the sit.

I had a look to the guide, pretending not to know the degree and I told to myself I would have been on that block one hour at most.

Maybe the block was congenial or maybe it’s time I start to believe more in my abilities, so half an hour later I tilted with a stupid smile on top of the block.

Unfortunately I had no time to try something else, ‘cause it started raining.

The last day we decided to visit the sector of Breithlaner: unfortunately the rains of the previous night made the blocks almost unworkable, because they are placed below the woodland.

I searched for a last minute solution and moved to Klausen Alm: the reasons of the day failed by now and I climbed without trying anything in particular.

Returning home always hurts, but I am already thinking of my next trip to Fontainebleu in the coming months.