Moon Climbing

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Showing 1 to 8 of 25 posts

The best crag in the world?

  • 02.10.2015- by Ben Moon
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I write this Blog having just got back to our Gite in Gap after a great day climbing in Ceuse. I’ve only ever had 1 day at Ceuse and that was way back in 1995. I am now wondering what I have been doing with my life for the past 20 years! Many claim it to be the best sport-climbing cliff in the world and it would be hard to argue with this claim. Bullet hard limestone, stunning location, world class routes in all directions and at least on the routes I climbed today a definite old school feel about them. We headed up to the Berlin sector and warmed up on a technical 6b+ face climb that really reminded me of the Styx wall at Buoux, keeping you on your toes, literally speaking all the way to the belay. Blocage ViRead More...

Rainshadow Film

  • 14.06.2015- by Ben Moon
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I apologise for bombarding you with stuff about my recent ascent of Rainshadow but I promise this will be the last post. I still find it hard to believe that I managed to redpoint this route and that today I am


Ben Moon's Climbing Diary From 1990 weeks 10 & 11

  • 12.06.2015- by Ben Moon
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So from my Rainshadow Blog a couple of days ago we are jumping back a quarter of a century to 14th June 1990 when I climbed Hubble, my first 9a.


Rainshadow 4th Ascent

  • 09.06.2015- by Ben Moon
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Yesterday I realized the dream I had of climbing Steve McClure’s classic 9a route Rainshadow. The dream began whilst walking in the Yorkshire Dales with my wife in 2012. Our route took us under the amazing limestone cove of Malham, it wasn’t a great day for climbing and most of the cove was wet but there was one lone climber working a route up the center of the cove. It turned out to be Jordan Buys and the route was Rainshadow. At the time I knew little or nothing about the route other than it was one of the hardest in the UK and graded 9a. Adam Ondra repeated it in 2011 in just 2 days and afterwards he said it was one of the best 9a routes he had climbed. Later in 2012 Jordan made the 3rd ascent. Since that day I’ve learnt a lot more about this route and what makes it so special. It takes a stunning line up the centre of the cove on bullet hard limestone and requires that special combination of strength and endurance. It’s not enough to be strong or fit, you needRead More...

the relevance of the triviality in climbing and its conflict

There is my routeprojekt around salzburg which I tried over and over again last year. Everytime I drove three hours one way, hiked up in the hope of dry holds, visualized the moves in certain appropriate and inappropriate situations, avoided party friends and too many beers at nights out and yet I failed. I failed over and over again. I knew all the moves, all the tricks, everything my body needed for the send, but in the end it didn't happen. The snow covered the surface of the beautyful landscape in a glittering white coat, which marked the end of the season. Time to let go. So why? Too weak? Of course, as a climber you always feel like an extra amount of newtonmeter would be fine. But I could do the crux moves, I could get there without being waisted ... Bad conditions? I repeatedly cut of my fingers on the cruxedge, but there were the good days, the sticky days, the no blood days, when everything was fine and the humidity was low and temps below zero, so... not that excuseRead More...

A GoodYear

  • 13.02.2014- by Simon Weill
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There are times around the Christmas period when I start to feel a little down. Now this is not because I am a sad sack who has no family or mates to pass the festive season with. Its more to do with the weather. Whilst you Northeners are passing the days in blissful conditions, sub zero, dry hands, sticky rock type stuff, it starts to get really hot down here in the So Hem. It's not unusual to have a Christmas where the mercury peaks at around 40degrees. In other words, it's terrible conditions for climbing. Now, it's bad enough that its fucking hot already, but to make matters worse, this year, for the first time in 7 or 8 years, I have to work all summer. So, not only do I miss out on climbing, I can't go travelling, I can't hang on the beach all day and party all night, Well I guess I can party all night, but fronting up to work hung over in your own restaurant all summer is probably not a great look, not to mention a shitty way to pass the days. So, yeah, I'm feeling a little low,Read More...

Back in the days!

  • 24.09.2013- by Ben Moon
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During these months I was able to travel a lot with my friends and with my family. In particular in August I spent ten days in Briançon, because my brother Marco and I prefered to check new climbing cliffs instead of going as usual to Ceuse. We pratically climbed in three beautiful crags: -Face Bouc -La Saume -Rue des masques Face Bouc is situated in Ailefroide Valley, a great steep granite wall with fantastic routes. In one day I managed to climb three different lines here, I was very amused! The easy routes to the very left of the crag were all in the sun so I decided to warm up on Cambonne Beurre 7a+ but when I arrived at the anchor I realised that this was wrong way to start the day because I felt quite pumpy and "locked" but after a great rest I felt OK. The second route was Fiaschi Natique 7c+ just on the left of CambonneRead More...

Smells like Alpine-Spirit

  • 15.09.2013- by Ben Moon
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This year I started my outdoor season in Gorge du Verdon. After one week of multipitch-climbing every boulder, and every sportsclimb felt simply like a joke (not because I was too strong, but because of the height).  So this summer, as I got injured at my finger too, I was in the perfect mood to try alpine routes.As I spend most of my „climbing-career“ in bouldering and sportsclimbing it is pretty exciting to climb in an alpine area as Rätikon.Already after 2 days there, I found a „new“ passion. Over the years I got stronger in climbing, but never went seriously to alpine stuff. And u can believe me: it’s like starting climbing again (at least on the first days).Just few days ago I had to lead my first route – from the bottom to the top. Hell, u can not believe how proud I was about myself not starting to cry and getting more and more used to climb mostly all parts „just“ with my feet. It was amazing to see, how small the „holds“ and how flat the steps can be – Read More...

Showing 1 to 8 of 25 posts